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 ADVANCED
Chopping Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sioux Named Boy S 
Baba Cool S 
Chopping Block T 
Glimpse Into Paradise 
Great Chimney, The T 
Meat is Murder S 
Twelve White Sticks S 
Valdez Overhang S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Chopping Block 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a X

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Herb and Jan Conn 9/30/57
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Jul 4, 2012

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follow arete to top, stay left up top at the V and...

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

From the water groove described in the location of the route, climb up the good holds (maybe 5.4) and summit onto the blunt arete that makes up the climb of Chopping Block. Now just keep your cool and follow the arete to the top. This route is listed as 5.3 in The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jann Conn and I would have to agree (vs the 5.2 rating in Vernon Phinney's guide). Jann is quoted as saying it's a strong friction climb that had them desperately hoping for some protection along the way. I didn't see any and besides once you get going it's better just to keep moving. Once you reach the anchors for Going to Harlem you can either rappel here or make a very fun, yet super dicey step/jump across (over The Great Dihedral) to obtain the same summit as Baba Cool and Meat is Murder. You can rappel here is well. I would highly recommend a rappel vs a down climb.

Location 

To find the route, locate and go to either Baba Cool or Meat is Murder. Then walk into the corridor that splits Chopping Block and Cleaver. Follow this as it narrows and tends to drop a little each step of the way. You'll come to a point where there seems to be a pit, don't fall in here, traverse around it for maybe 5 feet and look to your left (north). There should be a well defined water groove going up the rock, this is where I started the route.

Protection 

No protection, must solo. Multiple anchors located at top (Going To Harlem With A Pistol In My Jeans, Meat is Murder).


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