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The Trad Lands
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alan's Seam 
Big O Flyer 
BM Route 
Chimney Crack 
Chopless 
Corn Flake 
Dihedral 
Liar Liar 
Line It Up 
Little Ox 
Meat is Murder 
Mindless 
Oxymoron 
Passerby 
Resident Bush 
Startled 
Tootsie Roll 
Traditions 
Under The Table 
Unknown 
Unknown Chimney to Crack 
UnNamed 
X It 

Chopless 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 24, 2001
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What a fun route.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route should never suffer the fate of the many Front Range routes vandalized by criminals who feel empowered to strip the fixed protection from routes - it has none. It takes a series of right-facing corners up the middle of the tallest buttress in the Tradland. Start on the outside face of an amorphous blob of rock at the foot of the buttress. Low angle scrambling takes you to the corners and steeper climbing. Follow the corners all the way up the buttress to the ledge and shared anchors atop "Resident Bush", "Traditions", and "CornFlake".


Protection 

Standard gear rack to a two bolt anchor with rings.



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By shad O'Neel
Jan 22, 2004

Short, interesting, but many higher quality 5.8 cracks in the neighboorhood.

By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Apr 29, 2007

I thought this was the best 5.8 I have done in Tradlands this far and up there with any of the top 5.8s I've done at Table. The bottom section is a little bogus, but I liked everything up top.