Choose Life  5.14-

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.14a [details] FA:  Team Super-Way-Awesome (Pinklebear, T-Shred, G-Lover) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Sep 14, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Choose Life climbs the black streak just left of/b...

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Description 

This is a long (95-foot) lead on the south face of Seal Rock, 30 feet uphill from the base of Primate. It climbs the long, striking, wide chocolate-brown/black streak and is a horribly sustained yet varied pitch with the technical and redpoint crux at bolt 12, the next-to-last clip.

There are thirteen bolts to chains over the lip; a 60m rope is MANDATORY. Long draws and extendo draws are useful in spots. A Metolius 6 (green) is helpful below third bolt, and Metolius 2 (yellow) is useful after third bolt.

Begin in the right-leaning hand crack/undercling and follow it to its terminus. Traverse left along a diagonal break into a scoop. Hard kneebar/sloper moves take you over a small lip and into the base of the black streak; the climbing increases in difficulty, with a dynamic crux before a decent shake. From the rest, move up and a little left into a black bowl under the bulge, then surmount the bulge via sustained pulls on underclings, embedded pebbles and crimpers, finishing at a good bathtub jug at the top of the wall. This route is best attempted with fresh skin and good conditions. Maybe 13d, or 13d/14a, or 14a. Or "Boulder 12d"--you make the call; whichever rating is going to make you happiest.

May thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

The name refers to a decision in 2002, after toproping the climb (FA toprope ascent: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff, Strappo Hughes), to not attempt it as a super-death lead on gear, not to any anti-abortion stance.

It also references the classic opening paragraph in the Irvine Welsh novel Trainspotting: "Choose life. Choose a job. Choose a career. Choose a family. Choose a fucking, big television, Choose washing machines, cars, compact disc players, and electrical tin can openers. Choose good health, low cholesterol, and dental insurance. Choose fixed-interest, mortgage repayments. Choose a starter home. Choose your friends. Choose leisure wear and matching luggage. Choose a three piece suit on hire purchase in a range of fucking fabrics. Choose DIY and wondering who the fuck you are on a Sunday morning. Choose sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing, spirit-crushing game shows, stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. Choose rotting away at the end of it all, pissing your last in a miserable home, nothing more than an embarrassment to the selfish, fucked-up brats you have spawned to replace yourself. Choose your future. Choose life . . . ."

Protection 

13 bolts. Metolius Nos. 6 and 2. Extendo draws/long slings.

Photos of Choose Life Slideshow

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T-Shred, taking care of da bizzleness.	Low on the route, in hueco pockets.	Pretty big fall off the crux, but safe--all air.
T-Shred, many feet left to climb....	Bart Paul going for the send on Choose Life in the...	Every time I climb this route I feel like I got la...