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 ADVANCED
The Overhang
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Chomping the Bit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 952
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Mar 20, 2008
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Travis in the crux of Chomping the Bit.

Description 

Start right of the crack and head up on face holds to the arete/dihedral. Don't clip the nasty rusty old bolt, and pull the moves to the anchors.

A little chossy left around the corner after the 3rd bolt.


Location 

This is the leftmost bolted line under the Overhang. It ends only partway up the wall.


Protection 

3 fixed chain draws, 2 bolt anchor with fixed biners.



Photos of Chomping the Bit Slideshow Add Photo
Solo aid practice.
BETA PHOTO: Solo aid practice.
Steve low on Chomping the Bit.
Steve low on Chomping the Bit.
Solo aid practice.
Solo aid practice.
Solo aid practice.
Solo aid practice.
Solo aid practice.
BETA PHOTO: Solo aid practice.
Comments on Chomping the Bit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik Pohlman
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 2, 2008

A key hold on the left variation at the top, much to the amusement of some, has broken off.

By Erik Pohlman
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 30, 2008

As of 10-30-08, the old rusty aid bolt is no longer on the route. No more aiding through the crux. That's ok, though, because now with the fixed draws, you can lower off the 3rd bolt if you can't pull through.

By trisgo
From: Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Apr 1, 2013

I picked this route to practice some clean aid on and found it to be a great route. The crack that runs along the left side is solid, takes pro really nicely, and leads right to the anchors at the top.