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 ADVANCED
(L5) Good Craic Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Shamrock T 
The Italian Job S 
Bob Nearly Boxed T 
Chomping at the Bit S 
Chump Change T 
Collateral Damage T 
Good Craic T 
Irish Need Not Apply S 
Jalamanta S 
Jumpstart My Karma T,S 
Mescalero T,S 
Not My First Rodeo S 
Oh, Danny Boy S 
Rock Art in the Xray Style S 

Chomping at the Bit 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike H, Bob D
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,629
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Feb 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Really enjoyable stemming down low on the route.

Description 

Beautiful open book stemming corner. Solid rock with variety of athletic moves to 2 bolt anchor. One of the best routes at the grade at UV.

Location 

Middle of three dihedrals.

Protection 

8 bolts. Ignore stuck bit at last bolt.
(Bob pulled the bit out 7/3/11)


Photos of Chomping at the Bit Slideshow Add Photo
Great moves in a nice dihedral.
Great moves in a nice dihedral.
Left dihedral = Chomping at the Bit.  Tachycrackia...
BETA PHOTO: Left dihedral = Chomping at the Bit. Tachycrackia...
Climbing up the route after the low crux moves in ...
Climbing up the route after the low crux moves in ...
Above the crux and just enjoyable climbing above.
Above the crux and just enjoyable climbing above.

Comments on Chomping at the Bit Add Comment
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 2, 2009

One of my history teachers was very emphatic that the term was "champing at the bit" rather than "chomping at the bit". Some research has confirmed this assertion: langston.com/English/

Not that it actually matters, and it is entirely possible this is an intentional mistake.

Anywho, thanks for putting up these awesome routes. Definitely putting this one my list for the next time I head up to UV.
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Apr 3, 2009

Oh, Please...I quote:

"The earlier verb was champ, making its written debut in the 14th century and meaning "to bite, to gnash, to grind with one's teeth." It's still in use, though nowadays it appears almost exclusively in the phrase "champ at the bit." The verb chomp made its appearance in the late 16th century, and was clearly an alteration of "champ," sharing almost all of champ's meanings.

"Champ at the bit" was used before "chomp at the bit" and it has enjoyed a nice, long reign. However, popular usage has been swinging towards "chomp at the bit" since it first began being used in the phrase, sometime around the beginning of the 20th century. In fact, our evidence indicates that "chomping at the bit" is used in recent print sources more frequently than "champ at the bit," so we can't possibly ignore it."
Source:
2006 Merriam-Webster Incorporated
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 4, 2009

Sounds like the Trugster got SERVED! =)
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 4, 2009

Yep. The average American thinks it's "chomping at the bit". And the average American is always right.

In all seriousness, it was not my intention in posting this to be a smart ass; I was simply attempting to provoke some interesting etymological discussion while bored out of my mind on spring break. Sorry to offend. Keep up the good work in the Taos Gorge - it's a great area! I look forward to finally getting on this route!
By Bowe Ellis
From: Taos, NM
May 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun and full of stances. Seemed considerably easier than 11a.