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BETA PHOTO: "Chocolate Snake". Photo by Blitzo.
This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from. Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7). Chocolate Snake (5.6) starts as for French Flies, but diverts to the right (west) end of the north face instead of the left.
Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay.
Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face.Retreat is a pain. TR anchors might be made with a cordalette over some big horns.
A few nuts and cams to 2"
BETA PHOTO: "French Flies" follows the crack to the ...
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Did this with a couple of stoppers and an Alien... fun. Run out a bit at the top.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 3, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
climbed this with Jeff in the cold, would not recommend that (the cold), nor would I recommend this route to anyone until it has gotten more traffic/cleaned up a bit. The ball bearing underfoot syndrome on this one made my warm-up a bit more serious in the upper areas