Chocolate Liquido (6a+)
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BETA PHOTO: This bad photograph shows the beautiful second pit...
This is a work in progress. More information to come. A three pitch route that goes to just below the summit block on Principal and can join with the Normal (5+) to finish to the top. Three excellent pitches of stellar crack climbing. A varied first pitch, a long beautiful dihedral second pitch and a beautiful hand crack on the third pitch. The first pitch ends with a belay at a small stance atop a flake just below the obvious beautiful corner. Gear anchor. The second pitch ends at a two bolt rappel anchor up and left of where one exits the crack. I put a nut at the top of the crack to keep the rope out of the small groove that provided me with insane rope drag. Pitch three starts by moving back right and up a chimney. I thought that the best option stayed mostly to the left side of the chimney, climbing a handcrack up to a roof that is passed with beautiful stemming. There are two two bolt anchors at the top of the pitch. Look for the one directly above the pitch, versus the one to the left. The one to the left works, but you have to unrope and do some creative scrambling before heading up the summit block. The final pitch tackles the summit block on the left side beginning in a mossy notch. Climb past several bolts to the summit, either belaying from the first two bolt anchor you reach or for a more impressive belay stance, go right across the summit block to the two bolt anchor on the prow
(not visible till you get there)
Descent: From the prow, rap a single 70 (not sure if a 60 works) back to the two bolt anchor from when you came. Then again with a single 70 to the top of the 2nd pitch and the two bolt anchor. From there a double rope rappel gets you to a small shoulder. Go as far right as you can, even building an anchor if you need to in order to pull the rope, as pulling it straight down has a tendency (2 out of 3) to get it stuck. Then scramble out along the shoulder, towards la lechuza (I think that is it's name) to another set of hidden bolt anchors. A double rope rappel gets you to the notch and your packs from here.
More information to come.
This route starts just to the right of the Normal at the saddle on the westish side of Principal. More information to come.
Nuts, cams to #5 Friend, slings, two ropes to get down is helpful.