Chocolate is Better Than Sex 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, May 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 25, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Thin Wall
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Description This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's east side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as starting in a "double crack" in the center of the right half of the wall. Climb the double crack system upward to a merge 1/3 of just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then continue up on the single crack. The jams are good, although the rock is a little poor.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9+, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt fair at 5.8.
Protection Cams and Tricams. The crack system here is flaring and rounded and has plenty of shedding crystals. Set pro carefully. This is not 'S' for an experienced leader, but is not a good lead for a beginner.
| Comments on Chocolate is Better Than Sex |
|
By Johnnie Lyman
May 20, 2007
| This route has a tricky start for a newer leader. The moves are difficult to read and the whole climb feels a little strange. |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.8
| An "R" rating? Seriously? |
By Bowie
From: Portland, OR
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.8-
| R? What the heck?! Probably the easiest 9 in the park I've ever done. When you think about Pope's Crack or Touch and Go, this is a 5.8- or easier. No pro for the start for maybe 3 moves but this climb is not the least bit run-out. |
By Pete Wilk
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.8
| I would also agree that this climb is not an 'R' nor a 5.9+. 5.8/5.8- is probably a fair assessment. However, the line I took was primarily to the right of the one in the beta photo. |
By Daniel Evans
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Apr 17, 2013
rating: 5.8- PG13
| If you seriously rate this a 5.9 anything you haven't climbed a real 5.9 at J-tree |
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