Chocolate Flakes
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 29 votes
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | van betten, 85 |
Page Views: | 3,437 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Jon OBrien on Apr 24, 2011 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
1. somewhat dirty, awkward 5.8 corner w spaced gear to ledge w bolted anchor. apprx. 100 ' (we used 2 ropes to rap just to be sure)
2. move up and to left to hidden chocolate face, climb flake to roof w wide crack then stay in the feature for a long time to a ledge bolted anchor. apprx. 200' 5.9 (cool pitch)
3. steep jugs to pure crack in corner w fluid, beautiful movement 90' bolted belay. 5.10d
4. work up into exposed layback, follow to offwidth and interesting move off a horizontal before it eases off and a bolted anchor. 5.10a.
last 3 pitches were fantastic!
2. move up and to left to hidden chocolate face, climb flake to roof w wide crack then stay in the feature for a long time to a ledge bolted anchor. apprx. 200' 5.9 (cool pitch)
3. steep jugs to pure crack in corner w fluid, beautiful movement 90' bolted belay. 5.10d
4. work up into exposed layback, follow to offwidth and interesting move off a horizontal before it eases off and a bolted anchor. 5.10a.
last 3 pitches were fantastic!
Location
from pine creek walk the trail. make left after old homestead and cross wash. follow up to trail that traverses magic mtns base and go right. continue until under a notch in the mtn, aim for that. we rapped the 3rd and 4th pitch w/ 1 rope and the 1st and 2nd w/ two ropes. (60 meters) the climb shares the first two pitches of cartwright corner.
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