Chocolate Corner 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | KC Baum, B. Hustava |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002 |
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Neil Waldman living it big.
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Description This area, Lost Arrow Buttress, is tough to find from above (preferred). This may require fixed ropes/ascenders to exit. It's a long way to approach from below 4mi+. This is in upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. From the East entrance to the monument, go up the Rim ROck Drive, turn E on DS/East Glade Park Rd, park beyond the monument boundary sign in a large pullout. Cross the road, hop the fence, walk south 300y+ to a bowl/drainage. There was a cairn here. The upper part of this seems easy 4th class. We rappeled. The next rap is off a large ledge from a tree down a tighter slot. Leave this rope in place, pad the friction spots for the rope (or get a lot of wear on your rope). From here, walk to find a good tree and rap down a corner to the ground. It's easier to leave this rope in place, too. This climb is downhill from the rap line perhaps 400 yards. It ascends a left-facing corner of a pillar. There are varied sizes, varnished crack wtih fingers, hands, offwidth, lieback moves to delight you. It is easier than it looks. There is a 2 bolt anchor. Rap 70'.
Protection Cams to #4 Friend, including 3 #3 Friends, 2 #2 Friends, 2 #1 Camalots.
Rob Rebel in the beautiful chocolate corner.
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| Comments on Chocolate Corner |
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By Steve Kahn Apr 25, 2008
| Steep with a wide crux for the final moves. |
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