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Neil Waldman living it big.
This area, Lost Arrow Buttress, is tough to find from above (preferred). This may require fixed ropes/ascenders to exit. It's a long way to approach from below 4mi+. This is in upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. From the East entrance to the monument, go up the Rim ROck Drive, turn E on DS/East Glade Park Rd, park beyond the monument boundary sign in a large pullout. Cross the road, hop the fence, walk south 300y+ to a bowl/drainage. There was a cairn here. The upper part of this seems easy 4th class. We rappeled. The next rap is off a large ledge from a tree down a tighter slot. Leave this rope in place, pad the friction spots for the rope (or get a lot of wear on your rope). From here, walk to find a good tree and rap down a corner to the ground. It's easier to leave this rope in place, too.
This climb is downhill from the rap line perhaps 400 yards. It ascends a left-facing corner of a pillar. There are varied sizes, varnished crack wtih fingers, hands, offwidth, lieback moves to delight you. It is easier than it looks. There is a 2 bolt anchor. Rap 70'.
Cams to #4 Friend, including 3 #3 Friends, 2 #2 Friends, 2 #1 Camalots.
Rob Rebel in the beautiful chocolate corner.
|Comments on Chocolate Corner
|By Steve Kahn|
Apr 25, 2008
Steep with a wide crux for the final moves.