Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Donnelly Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
Dos Hermanos T 
Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 
Violently happy T 

Chocolate Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 21,107
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Mar 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (499)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chocolate Corner from the chains.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another popular moderate classic. Hike along the main Donnelly buttress north from Generic, past Binou's, and look for a beautiful thin-hands crack in a dark right-facing corner. Trample (as lightly as possible) up from the trail to the base. Start with #1 Camalot size until it pinches down slightly (#2 Friend), grunt (or panic depending on your style) through the thinness to a nice ledge on the left. Continue up the widening (starts #2 Camalot size, ends #3 Camalot size) crack to the anchors on the right.

If your hands are small this will probably be a cruise. The rest of us probably will say there's a move or two of 9+.

Protection 

2-3 #1 Camalots, #2 Friend or #.75 Camalot (Friend is better for the size), a couple #2 to #3 Camalots.


Photos of Chocolate Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife Elizabeth following Chocolate Corner.
My wife Elizabeth following Chocolate Corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: One's climbing, one's guarding.
One's climbing, one's guarding.
Rock Climbing Photo: taped up on Chocolate.
taped up on Chocolate.
Rock Climbing Photo: Evening light rappell
Evening light rappell
Rock Climbing Photo: The Chocolate Corner.
The Chocolate Corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruisin'
Cruisin'
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma Madara on Chocolate Corner during Montrail Sp...
Emma Madara on Chocolate Corner during Montrail Sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the Chocolate Corner, a fantastic t...
Setting up for the Chocolate Corner, a fantastic t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising through the first 20 feet
Cruising through the first 20 feet
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top
Near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Does it get any better?
Does it get any better?
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg leading CC while Myke belays.
Greg leading CC while Myke belays.
Rock Climbing Photo: Barto Heading up Chocolate Corner.
Barto Heading up Chocolate Corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peggy Oki on Chocolate corner taking advantage of ...
Peggy Oki on Chocolate corner taking advantage of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joan on Chocolate Corner
Joan on Chocolate Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Chocolate Corner
Starting up Chocolate Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Night Send for the big 20 birthday yarr! Merry bir...
Night Send for the big 20 birthday yarr! Merry bir...

Comments on Chocolate Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2015
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 19, 2001

This route was pretty thin for my meat hooks. But, short and sweet!
By Wes Allen
From: Lexington, KY
Mar 26, 2002

Nice route. Great stemming toward the top. The upper pitches look very cool, but way to hard for me.
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002

I thought this rout was harder than 5.9. As always the grade depends on hand size. I find a #3 camolt a good jam so #1 is quite insecure. 5.10-
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, but I wish it was a little longer.

I could get pretty decent jams with my hands.
By Max Schon
Nov 18, 2003

The upper pitches are called Ocean Negro and go at 5.12a and 5.12c. The 5.12a is technical and reasonable, the 5.12c is just plain hard.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2004

This is a short pitch, but I once saw someone place over 15 pieces on it, thus proving that no matter how big a rack you bring to Indian Creek you can still run out of gear!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fantastic easier route with impeccable rock. Perfect for smaller hands (red camalot size). Short.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 15, 2007

also, re: Ocean Negro, you can get off of it with one 70m rope. It is a bit interesting rapping from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2; you need some directionals since it is so steep. You can get from the top of pitch two to the ground with one 70m rope, barely. Or you could just do a huge double rope rappel with two 60's or 70's to the ground from the very top.

awesome line.
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 23, 2009

Your female climbers partners should really like this one since the crack is a little small for man-hands. This one turned out to be harder for me than elephant man. Moral of the story is everything is size dependent.
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Sep 29, 2010

I swear this was harder than Mr. Peanut for me...
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

My first route in the creek. Felt pretty damn hard for a 5.9, Generic, IHC and Blue Sun all felt quite a bit easier. Some tight hands (red c4) and smaller. A couple of good hand jams and quite a few face holds to stem and rest on. Powered through for the flash but, this was pretty humbling for my first attempt at creek climbing.
By Franz N
From: Mass.
Apr 15, 2013

Short and sweet, good to eat. One of my favorites leads so far. #1 Camalots going straight up, with a couple larger and smaller pieces to place.
By cesky12
From: Edwards, Colorado
Jul 23, 2014

Thin for my hands, almost pooped myself straining
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Mar 11, 2015

If this one is a challenging grade for you, I think you'll be psyched to have at least one more #1 and #2 than the suggested rack above. I know I would have been!
By Kate Zimm
From: Denver, CO
Nov 9, 2015

Found 2 quickdraws on top of this route on Friday 11/6/15. PM me if you think they might be yours and I'll try to get them back to you.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!