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Chockstone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Skidmore, Swift '76
Page Views: 2,713
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Chockstone and the trash compacter roof

Description 

1st piece is a little high after low crimpy moves, gain a crack system and fun moves until the crux hits when tranfering into corner after resting below roof. continue to anchors

There was a bolt right where you came out of the face and onto the corner (WHY??) it has been removed. Please, don't place another bolt here, there is great gear all around.

Orginally rated 5.7


Location 

Route that is south side of trash compactor roof, obvious splitter to corner


Protection 

takes great gear, standard rack



Photos of Chockstone Slideshow Add Photo
Michael Martin resting just before the crux
Michael Martin resting just before the crux
classic route!
classic route!
Ladd Raine making the crux moves of this classic line.
Ladd Raine making the crux moves of this classic l...
Sizing up my first 9
Sizing up my first 9
TR'ing Chockstone. Fun route.
TR'ing Chockstone. Fun route.
Pulling up into the dihedral (crux) of the Chockstone.
Pulling up into the dihedral (crux) of the Chockst...
Comments on Chockstone Add Comment
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By Will Sweeney
From: Bakersfield, California
May 22, 2012

This route is a must do! My first climb ever at the New and I was blown away by the quality of the rock. I've climbed a lot more in the area since and this is still one of my favorites. It doesn't look possible for this to be 5.9 from the ground but then its all there! A good piece of pro in the lower horizontal is available before the finger crack and the dihedral is really techy and fun! This route has it all!