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Flathead
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Chockstone (The Chimney) 

Chockstone (The Chimney) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Oct 15, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.

Description 

The route ascends the obvious chimney splitting the two tiers of the east face of the Flathead. The route has two sections: the first tier, a proper deep chimney, and the second tier, the chockstone.

The actual chimneying on this route is easier than the crux, surmounting the chockstone (5.6).

This is an adventuresome and easy route to the top.


Location 

This is the obvious chimney on the east face of the Flathead. The Flathead is the formation to the north of Upper Spire.

The approach to the start of the route is straight forward: simply find your way up the slope to the base of the chimney.

The descent is easy. Walk off the north side of the formation. Hang a left and find your way down between Lost John and Flathead.


Protection 

Protecting the first part of the chimney may be possible, though I did not. After the large ledge, on the second part of the chimney, small cams protect the crux.

There exists many options for a traditional anchor on the summit.



Photos of Chockstone (The Chimney) Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Oct 15, 2013

A photo of the route: