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Reni at the crux
This is pretty interesting chimney/crack climb.
Follow up the crack in the very back of the chimney. The begging is very easy with lots of fun moves and great places for protection higher up. You most likely will not place any protection until about 10-13m into the climb, there isn't many places for pro in the first section unless you have a size 4 or bigger cam. You can use the crack in the back to place pro but it is wide and all requires size 4 or bigger cams. Most of the pro you place will be on the sides of the chimney.
The crux is at the obvious overhang with the chockstone stuck in the crack. Keep your body facing to the right and your back to the left side. You can place pro on either side of the chockstone, it is pretty solid. I placed two pieces; a #2 friend on the right side and a #13 abc wedge on the left, equalized. The crux looks a lot harder then it really is. Once you place your gear down climb about 2ft, keeping your back on the right-hand side back out of the chimney just a bit to the outer edge of the overhang. The moves to get around and over the crux are of moderate difficulty but a easier then when you are looking at it.
Once you get above the overhang make your way up the narrow chimney to the top.
This is a very enjoyable climb.
This is route number 2 on the topo. I marked the route on the topo just outside of the chimney, the actual route follows directly up the center.
This is a trad route, there are no TR or abseil anchors bolted on this route but there are some abseil chains near by.
BETA PHOTO: Reni pulling out the pro I placed at the chockston...
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
This was a great route. It was very challenging but not too difficult to follow. The crux seems a lot harder then it really is. Getting to the chock stone then around it was the hardest part. I took too long pulling out the gear and my legs started to cramp while I was bridged in the chimney.