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Redgarden - Tower One
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Chockstone Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 12, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Chockstone Chimney rappel route. From the top of ...
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  • Description 

    From near the top (West end) of the upper ramp, this interesting route is visible as a massive left-facing dihedral, with a West-facing chimney in its back. The reason for its name is the amazing number, size and variety of chockstones in the chimney- Even fist sized chockstones wedged behind torso-sixed chockstones, that in turn are caught between the wall and the car-sized chockstones choking the crack.

    Most climbers more likely know this climb as a rappel than as a route, as the anchors at top reach down from Ruper, Italian Arete, Body Tremors and Upper Grand giraffe, back down to the top of the upper ramp, and easily close to the Song of the Dodo anchors (AKA Vertigo Raps).

    The climb is fun tough, and is worth doing. Despite the blocky nature of the climb, it is still good. The 5.6 grade seems to account for wandering left tor right to take the easiest line, but advanced climbers can still enjoy this, taking a direct line on either side or even pulling the largest chocks as roofs.

    Rap down 110' to the Upper Meadows from the rap anchors up top. A 70m rope meets the ground conveniently, but be careful with a 60m.


    Protection 

    A standard rack with nuts and cams. hexes might be the most appropriate tool of all, should you have them.



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