Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
From near the top (West end) of the upper ramp, this interesting route is visible as a massive left-facing dihedral, with a West-facing chimney in its back. The reason for its name is the amazing number, size and variety of chockstones in the chimney- Even fist sized chockstones wedged behind torso-sixed chockstones, that in turn are caught between the wall and the car-sized chockstones choking the crack.
Most climbers more likely know this climb as a rappel than as a route, as the anchors at top reach down from Ruper, Italian Arete, Body Tremors and Upper Grand giraffe, back down to the top of the upper ramp, and easily close to the Song of the Dodo anchors (AKA Vertigo Raps).
The climb is fun tough, and is worth doing. Despite the blocky nature of the climb, it is still good. The 5.6 grade seems to account for wandering left tor right to take the easiest line, but advanced climbers can still enjoy this, taking a direct line on either side or even pulling the largest chocks as roofs.
Rap down 110' to the Upper Meadows from the rap anchors up top. A 70m rope meets the ground conveniently, but be careful with a 60m.
A standard rack with nuts and cams. hexes might be the most appropriate tool of all, should you have them.