Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Chockstone Chimney 

WI3-4 R

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 3,036
Submitted By: sandstone on Apr 13, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Feb. '07. Bottom section.

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is uphill from Skylight. Previously, the info had been incorrect on this route.

Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely.

Protection 

Ice screws can be useful where the ice is fat enough. Bring rock gear.


Photos of Chockstone Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Feb '07. Simulclimbing the snowy middle section. The views up through this slot are way cool.
Feb '07. Simulclimbing the snowy middle section. T...
Beyond the big chockstone.  Upper Chockstone Chimney on February 23, 2008. <br /> <br />Photo by Matt Newman
BETA PHOTO: Beyond the big chockstone. Upper Chockstone Chimn...
Feb '07. The upper section. There was a short rock traverse (left) to a snow ramp after the ice ended.  Bring tricams, a small selection of cams, and be prepared for some loose rock.
Feb '07. The upper section. There was a short rock...
Thick ice but lots of snow make for a short climb in Chockstone Chimney on February 23, 2008. <br /> <br />Photo by Matt Newman
BETA PHOTO: Thick ice but lots of snow make for a short climb ...
Just so you know what it looks like under all that ice. (photo by Jayna Waters)
Just so you know what it looks like under all that...
Second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Second pitch.

Comments on Chockstone Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By ?????
Jan 12, 2004

Second pitch is in above this climb. Mixed conditions at the top. Placement of ice screws can be tough, bring rock. Anchor at top is a bit away so be sure to bring two ropes of have a hairy long down climb.
By sandstone
Feb 14, 2007

Eds. reference to an incorrect photo:

I've posted some newer photos of what the guidebooks say is Chockstone Chimney (the old McTiernan guidebook is actually better for identifying these climbs than the newer Roberts guidebook -- that is assuming McTiernan got it right :-).

This is a fun route that is not hard. The views up and down the route (especially looking up under the big chockstone) are very cool.

Here's one way to do it (in the conditions we found). Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely.