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An old climb up a massive chimney system:
Pitch 1) Start walking up the chimney. Class two quickly turns to three and four before reaching an impasse below a large chockblock. An old rusty bolt ladder will bypass this chockblock, however, the free variation is only 5.8 and well protected. Clip one of the first two bolts on the ladder for security and use chimney technique to ascend directly below the chockblock. Place a bomber small to medium cam with a long runner and pull the strenuous old school 5.8 moves to gain the slopped and sandy top of the chockblock. Set up a belay in the tree/bushes further above the chockblock.
Pitch 2) Bump the belay up to an alcove at the highest point of the slopped and sandy ledge.
Climb a hollow stack of blocks (5.5) until a bush with years of broken sticks and sediment blocks your progress. Find a passage through the bush and debris. Set up a belay on top of the debris at the base of a dark and intimidating chimney.
Pitch 3) Easily begin up the chimney setting questionable pro until a good rest is reached below an impasse. Slowly stem toward the outside of the chimney to eventually regain upward progress (5.7). Climb up the narrowing and increasingly rotten chimney. Stay on route here and do not escape toward Tithe.
When you reach the top of the climb, find a large pine tree with slings and biners for the start of the rappels. Make one double rope rappel to the sandy/sloped top of pitch one. Find a ledge that traverses over the top of pitch one, looking for a rappel anchor that consists of a rusty quarter inch bolt and an old stopper. Make a single rope rappel from the bolt/stopper anchor back to the start of the climb.
Follow the directions to Drive By Shooting. Take a right and weave through a short section of talus, staying close to the rock. Pass Controlled Burn and The Great Escape. Chockblock Chimney will be the largest right facing chimney after the approach for Cosmic Debris is passed.
Standard rack to 4.5"
Feb 11, 2012
Pitch one is directly below a rockfall section. I have been on the climb three times between 2000 - 2008 and have never witnessed any falling rock, although the signs of recent activity is there. Regardless, this climb has a good old-school feel to it. But you have to enjoy quality filth to enjoy this climb.