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This climb is a good finish to Chockstone, a route that is otherwise a great climb with a ho-hum finish. From the last "good part" of Chockstone, the 5.9 thin dihedral up top, you reach a ledge with a easy, messy trough that leads to a tree and rap station. Instead of doing this, look left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral with a clean, thin crack. This pitch is reasonably well chalked. Start up and reach the crux [at] mid-pitch, stepping right at a bulge. Finish up top. Just up and left of the top of the pitch is the only decent gear to belay off of, and this top ledge does have some loose blocks that could kill those below. Though these are easily avoided, one must be vigilant up there.
To descend: A) Scramble delicately down 20' to the tree above the top of Chockstone, then [rap] down to the east 25m to another tree, then 30m to the ground. B) Work your way E/SE down a broken ledge system to below the climb Whiplash (above Xanadu) and continue [past that] point to [scramble] down a gully [to the] ground. Again, there are [potentially] dangerous loose rocks, and odds are several people below.
As for Chockstone (required to approach). This particular pitch requires gear starting with RPs and moving to [medium] stoppers and small TCUs to 1". A 1.5 or 2" [piece] can be placed near the crux, but equally good gear can be had in the smaller ranges. One fixed nut currently resides at the crux.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 10, 2010
No, that's the 5.8 section of "pitch 3" of Chockstone. So maybe you were having a high gravity day :)
Chock Suey is up and left after you do this section and climb over a couple of huge, loose blocks.