Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 
Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Chock Suey 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. & J. [Rossiter], 1983
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is a good finish to Chockstone, a route that is otherwise a great climb with a ho-hum finish. From the last "good part" of Chockstone, the 5.9 thin dihedral up top, you reach a ledge with a easy, messy trough that leads to a tree and rap station. Instead of doing this, look left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral with a clean, thin crack. This pitch is reasonably well chalked. Start up and reach the crux at mid-pitch, stepping right at a bulge. Finish up top. Just up and left of the top of the pitch is the only decent gear to belay off of, and this top ledge does have some loose blocks that could kill those below. Though these are easily avoided, one must be vigilant up there.

To descend: A) scramble delicately down 20' to the tree above the top of Chockstone, then [rap] down to the east 25m to another tree, then 30m to the ground. B) work your way E/SE down a broken ledge system to below the climb Whiplash (above Xanadu), and continue past that point to scramble down a gully to the ground. Again, there are potentially dangerous loose rocks and, odds are, several people below.

Protection 

Gear as for Chockstone (required to approach). This particular pitch requires gear starting with RPs and moving to medium stoppers and small TCUs to 1". A 1.5" or 2" piece can be placed near the crux, but equally good gear can be had in the smaller ranges.


Comments on Chock Suey Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!