||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, J. Meir, 4/28/2002|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces mostly South, but has a shaded base in winter.|
|Page Views: ||474|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Apr 28, 2002|
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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Follow the directions as for Sour Cream. Climb the first 40-50' of Sour Cream (the good part) and just after passing the overhang, place a few good pieces of gear (tricams or SLCD's, 1" to 1.5") on a 2' sling, just below a small roof. This is ~ 8' below a tiny pine tree in the Sour Cream Crack. From that pro, traverse hard right on 2 good holds to the arete. These moves are great! Climb the arete for about 10' to the first available gear.
- * This previous section is a little runout and requires a solid head. None the less, it should be reasonably safe for an experienced 5.9 leader, as the hardest moves are the traverse and they are well protected. **
Continue on the arete upward. This is the second prominent arete left of the Potato Chip.
Descend as for Ruffle Have Ridges
A standard Eldo rack, or 1 set cams .5-2" + a few tricams.