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Routes Sorted
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14 Carats 
Breakfast in Bhopal 
Chip Off the Block 
Easy Money 
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Ewetopia 
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Fire It Up 
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Gem, The 
Handyman 
Holiday In Cambodia 
Illusions 
Jewel Of The Wild 
Lucy in the Sky 
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp 
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend 
Pocket Change 
Potato Chipper 
Precious Stone 
Pubic Zirconium 
Smoldering Horse Flesh 
Sonic Youth 
Splitting the Stone 
Stinger 
Stress Rehearsal 
Sunrise Arete 
Topaz 
Tottering into Antiquity 
Traditional Trickery 
Tryptophan 
Welcome to Yosemite 
What's the Combo? 
Unsorted Routes:

Chip Off the Block 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso, & Pat Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Mar 12, 2004
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Jess taking a rest.

Description 

Per Rick Thompson: A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors.

This is handy if you want to set up a TR on The Gem.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

This is just left of The Gem.



Photos of Chip Off the Block Slideshow Add Photo
Erin about halfway up Chip Off the Block.
Erin about halfway up Chip Off the Block.
Comments on Chip Off the Block Add Comment
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By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Mar 23, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Hey Peter - Glad you enjoyed this and some of the other new additions at the Gem Wall. There are 15 or more new routes at this wall alone. My updated Shelf guide is off to production at the end of this week, and in should be available in 4-6 weeks so everyone will have access to information for more than a hundred new routes that have gone in at Cactus and other near-by cliffs over the past few years.

For clarification I'll reveal this ones' identity - here's the description as it will appear in the updated guide:

Chip Off the Block 9 ***FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso & Pat Thompson, 2002. A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors. Seven clips. 55 feet.

You'll also note that many of the older Gem Wall routes have been re-equipped. So, say goodbye to many of those home-made hangers and sketchy anchor set-ups.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 28, 2004

Thanks for the info Rick.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 5, 2006

An excellent moderate, the crux comes early.

By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
May 3, 2009

I'm confused... Isn't this on the Gem wall??? Chip Off the Block

By Ashley Gann
May 15, 2009

This climb has been entered twice, once here and once under the Gem Wall. Under the Gem Wall the name is incorrect though, its under "Chip Off the Block." Maybe one should be deleted? I entered it twice and was looking at it and got confused also!

By slim
Administrator
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The 6th bolt is in a semi-detached flake that vibrates significantly. Pretty considerable lack of judgment on the FA's part. 2 feet to the left (on the left wall) is bomber rock.