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Sheep's Nose
Routes Sorted
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10 Sheep and a Goat 
An Apostle or Two  
Army Route  
Assassination Slab  
Chinook 
Direct Line  
Evening Stroll 
For Wimps Only  
Friction 
Golden Fleece  
Hard Monkeys  
Harpoon The Manta Ray  
It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass 
Lamb's Prey 
Lost in Space 
Old Man Route  
Ozone Direct 
Pimp, The 
Pit of Despair, The 
Psycho Babble 
Seamis 
Sheep in Wolves Clothing  
Sheep with a Silver Tail 
Sheep’s Dare  
Sheer Sheep Attack  
Southeast Face 
Space Cadet  
Ten Years After 
Unknown 
When Sheep are Nervous 

Chinook 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Peter Gallager
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 7, 2001
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Mike prepares to fall his way up the finger crack ...

Description 

In the long section or the Sheep's Nose between Ten Years After and the Lost in Space buttress there are a good number of single pitch climbs. Left of Evening Stroll is a giant flake leaning up against the wall. We climbed behind the flake, in the shade, until we got to the top of the flake where we could escape out onto the face via a "window." We set an intermediate belay here so the rope wouldn't be snaking behind the flake and then back out onto the face.

From the "window" move right (carefully since there are no pieces between the leader and the belay at this point) and head up the beautiful arching offset crack. As the angle of the crack changes so it points downward, the angle of the face decreases so you are smearing for the last few moves. It is at the end here where the extra large piece or two will be appreciated.

Although short, the combination of the shadowy flake start, and the high quality crack above make this worth two stars.


Protection 

The initial section (behind the massive flake) will take some hand-size cams. The sustained thin crack portion is well protected with many wires and some small cams although it is strenuous to place or remove them. Save one or two larger pieces (#3 and #3.5 Camalots) for the final section.



Photos of Chinook Slideshow Add Photo
Garrett walking on down the road, his shadow taller than his soul.  The lady has already turned everything to gold.
Garrett walking on down the road, his shadow talle...
The route. Stay on the outside during the start for some great stemming and jamming!
The route. Stay on the outside during the start fo...
Comments on Chinook Add Comment
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By Bo Johnston
May 22, 2004

Incredible climb!! I wish I read the web description before I went out there. I only racked small cams for the finger crack and didn't realize that it could be desperate at the finish. I was looking at a good sized fall at the end and pressed a #0.5 Camalot into some moss and crossed my heart. From start to finish; a perfect climb.

By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Going through the tunnel seems cool, but unnecessary. Climb the outside of the pillar at 5.9 and link the entire route in 1 pitch.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is a perfect finger crack route, four stars if it wasn't just one pitch. Solid for the grade.

The knobby face immediately to the left is great practice for crystal pitching!