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YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tim Kuss
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on Apr 12, 2009
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A hard thin start leads to thin boulder problems up higher.


This is just left of the Contortionist.



Photos of Chingadero Slideshow Add Photo
Crimpin' hard.
Crimpin' hard.
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By IanA
From: Durango, CO
May 11, 2009

Talked to Tim today he said it was called "Chingadero".

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

I put in this route in January, 2009. It has proven to be popular, especially for a hard-ish route at East A. Chingadero!

By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
Aug 22, 2010

One of the best routes up here. You just need to be a good sandstone climber for up top.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

The first bolt is safer with a single carabiner. When working the route on lead, it is good to have a very tentative belayer from the first to the second bolt.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Nov 15, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

One of the crimpers broke right above the roof after you clip the 3rd bolt. The hold is definitely harder to hold onto than it used to be. Chingadero is still a good route, but the quality has definitely changed since that one hold broke.

By Tyler Gordon
From: Durango, CO
Jul 28, 2013

In regards to that broken hold, I'm not sure it changed the quality of the route any, but it seemed to make it harder. It had been a while since I got on it, so maybe my memory/ego is just trying to convince me of this fact.