|Type:||Mixed, 1 pitch|
|Submitted By:||Daniel Battin on Jan 21, 2008|
|Comments on Chinese Water Torture||Add Comment|
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By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2009
The bolted route on this buttress is Chinese Water Torture and was put up by Mark Miller. Consensus is about M8.
The crack to the right of Chinese Water Torture is Hight Tor, and the grade is similar, but it's a trad route. If the crack is chocked up with ice, there might be limited gear possibilities. Both of these are great routes.
By Todd Felix
Jan 2, 2014
There is a 2-bolt anchor with chains and carabiners. This works better than the tree, but it is pretty exposed (you'll probably want to use the tree for protection if setting a TR off the bolts).
The new guidebook calls this M9 due to broken holds around the middle of the route which results in a blank move or 2 (or a 'long reach' that I cannot fathom). Has local consensus changed? I don't know, but I did find the move perplexingly blank.
And thank you, Jason, for clarifying High Tor vs CWT.