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Lower Bridge to Scottish Gullies
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Unsorted Routes:

Chinese Water Torture 

M8

   
Type:  Mixed, 1 pitch
Consensus: M8 [details]
FA: Mark Miller
Season: Winter
Page Views: 975
Submitted By: Daniel Battin on Jan 21, 2008
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Past the crux on High Tor
(The ice in the photo is...

Description 

This is a nice, little, slightly overhanging, mostly rock route.


Location 

It is on the next buttress downstream from the Dizzy buttress. The route can be rapped into or accessed from the walk out on the other side of the gorge.


Protection 

Bolts. Anchor off of a tree about 10 feet back from the ledge.



Photos of Chinese Water Torture Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Wharton making it look easy on 'Chinese Water Torture'.
Josh Wharton making it look easy on 'Chinese Water...
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By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2009

The bolted route on this buttress is Chinese Water Torture and was put up by Mark Miller. Consensus is about M8.
The crack to the right of Chinese Water Torture is Hight Tor, and the grade is similar, but it's a trad route. If the crack is chocked up with ice, there might be limited gear possibilities. Both of these are great routes.

By Todd Felix
Jan 2, 2014

There is a 2-bolt anchor with chains and carabiners. This works better than the tree, but it is pretty exposed (you'll probably want to use the tree for protection if setting a TR off the bolts).

The new guidebook calls this M9 due to broken holds around the middle of the route which results in a blank move or 2 (or a 'long reach' that I cannot fathom). Has local consensus changed? I don't know, but I did find the move perplexingly blank.

And thank you, Jason, for clarifying High Tor vs CWT.