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Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. ...
Chinese Freedom is one of the best climbs at Red Wing, offering great technical climbing, bomber rock(for MN dolomite, that is), and two back to back cruxes that couldn't be more different in character. Twenty feet of crimpy climbing brings you to the cruxes. The first is a delicate, improbable cross through off a flat undercling sloper. The sloper can't really be grasped, just pushed up on by standing up, and crossing through seems ridiculous until you finally commit and go for it. Many people, particularly those of a shorter stature, end up lunging at the end of the cross through; luckily the pockets you're reaching for are two of the most improbably perfect jugs you'll ever encounter on a route. Shake out and clip from the jugs, then go for the next crux; a huge deadpoint dyno to a flat edge three or four feet above the holes. This hold must be hit perfectly to prevent you're feet from popping off the nonexistent smears for feet. Once through the second crux, easier climbing featuring a fist jam rest, the world's best two finger pocket, and a couple of perfect oxide crimps lead to one last long move to a jug at the anchors.
Sticking the dyno at the finish of the crux sectio...
BETA PHOTO: Jonathan Williams moving into the crux of Chinese ...
Jonathan Williams moving into the hueco jugs on Ch...
Moving into key footholds.
Trying the crux, again...
(crux underclings seen ...
Jak making the technical crossover
Nate with the Deadpoint!
BETA PHOTO: Technical crux
|Comments on Chinese Freedom
|By Adam Therneau|
Nov 15, 2006
Probably one of the three best routes at redwing, and the best route of the grade I've ever done.
|By Jonathan Williams|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007
A classic and one of the most popular on this wall; and for good reason.
From: Duluth Mn
Oct 20, 2008
The first crux can be done without crossing through with your left hand but you must be tall. This route is so classic, a must every time I go to RedWing
|By Joel Andersen|
Dec 19, 2011
11a/b for the sake of downgrading randy.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 19, 2011
dude, i have no right to downgrade. now, you, a colorado resident, can be the downgrade sheriff.