Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's) Rock Climbing
This is a prominent, subsidiary peak at the N or NW end of Mt. Lawrence Grassi in Kananaskis Provincial Park. It is between Thre Sisters and Mt. Rundle. The prominent N and NE faces call out to you to be climbed.
The peak itself is 7900 feet (2408m) high, with a 2400 foot (740m) elevation gain. The rock is coarse limestone, definitely loose in places. The exposure is quite nice. It can be a great place during a warm summer.
For the history buffs, the names for this peak supposedly date back to the 1880s when a bet was placed. Supposedly, Ha Ling, a railroad worker won a bet by making a round trip from Bow Valley in 5 1/2 hours. Now, some controversy
is that Lee Poon actually did the ascent and won the $10 bet. Weird, one website
says $50, that would have been a lot in those days. The peak was renamed in perhaps a revisionistic PC sort of way.
For rock climbers, there are both traditional and sport climbs here on the 550m (1650ft) face. Once, the 21-pitch (all 1/2 rope or less), 5.10+ N face route, Sisyphus Summits, was quite controversial. This was once possibly the longest sport climb in North America. The low-end difficulty NE Ridge attracts many due to its pleasant exposure and apparent ease of ascent, but beware, the route has some hazards. Check out the Alpine Club Canada
site for a few details on 4 injuries & 3 deaths. Map
of the area. Photo
of peak from approach. Photo
closer to the face. Photo
on NE face with nice exposure. My old shots are all print film.
Take Highway 1 to Canmore. Then go on Spray Lake Reservoir Rd. past the Canmore Nordic Center. Hikers will typically park at the Goat Creek parking lot. Climbers occasionally park/poach near the dam/reservoir.
The hike up the scree to the base takes 30-60 minutes. It is a bit loose.
The descent (1.4mi/2.2km) goes down the backside with scree and scree-skiing for 1-2 hours back to the base.
Climbing Season For the Bow Valley area.
Weather station 12.0 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's) :
NE Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'
Featured Route For Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)
Soft Moth 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a North America
: ... : Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman'...
From Brandon Pullan's Facebook post on TABVAR:I have added a number of protection bolts to Soft Moth 5.9, 500 metres on Ha Ling to make the route more reasonable.Gear: 60-metre rope and rack from .3 to number 2 camalot. If you are going to climb Moth Crack, bring some small cams for the finger crack to number 3. Bring 10 sport draws and runners for pitches 8 and 9.Approach: As for all Ha Ling routes. It is the first right facing corner beneath the large black wall right of Quick Re...[more] Browse More Classics in International
From the parking area/approach. Thanks Ron Keller...
One of the obstacles encountered on your way from ...
Ha Ling, as seen from the Junkyards ice area. Earl...