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Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
NE Buttress T 
NW Shoulder (aka THE BOLT), The T 
Sisyphus Summits  S 
Soft Moth T 

Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,900'
Location: 51.06497, -115.39969 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,676
Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 9, 2007
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Description 

This is a prominent, subsidiary peak at the N or NW end of Mt. Lawrence Grassi in Kananaskis Provincial Park. It is between Thre Sisters and Mt. Rundle. The prominent N and NE faces call out to you to be climbed.

The peak itself is 7900 feet (2408m) high, with a 2400 foot (740m) elevation gain. The rock is coarse limestone, definitely loose in places. The exposure is quite nice. It can be a great place during a warm summer.

For the history buffs, the names for this peak supposedly date back to the 1880s when a bet was placed. Supposedly, Ha Ling, a railroad worker won a bet by making a round trip from Bow Valley in 5 1/2 hours. Now, some controversy is that Lee Poon actually did the ascent and won the $10 bet. Weird, one website says $50, that would have been a lot in those days. The peak was renamed in perhaps a revisionistic PC sort of way.

For rock climbers, there are both traditional and sport climbs here on the 550m (1650ft) face. Once, the 21-pitch (all 1/2 rope or less), 5.10+ N face route, Sisyphus Summits, was quite controversial. This was once possibly the longest sport climb in North America. The low-end difficulty NE Ridge attracts many due to its pleasant exposure and apparent ease of ascent, but beware, the route has some hazards. Check out the Alpine Club Canada site for a few details on 4 injuries & 3 deaths.

Map of the area.

Photo of peak from approach. Photo closer to the face. Photo on NE face with nice exposure. My old shots are all print film.

Getting There 

Take Highway 1 to Canmore. Then go on Spray Lake Reservoir Rd. past the Canmore Nordic Center. Hikers will typically park at the Goat Creek parking lot. Climbers occasionally park/poach near the dam/reservoir.

The hike up the scree to the base takes 30-60 minutes. It is a bit loose.

The descent (1.4mi/2.2km) goes down the backside with scree and scree-skiing for 1-2 hours back to the base.

Climbing Season

For the Bow Valley area.

Weather station 12.0 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's) :
NE Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'   
Sisyphus Summits    5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 21 pitches, 1700'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)

Featured Route For Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's)
Rock Climbing Photo: the start of the route

Soft Moth 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman'...
From Brandon Pullan's Facebook post on TABVAR:I have added a number of protection bolts to Soft Moth 5.9, 500 metres on Ha Ling to make the route more reasonable.Gear: 60-metre rope and rack from .3 to number 2 camalot. If you are going to climb Moth Crack, bring some small cams for the finger crack to number 3. Bring 10 sport draws and runners for pitches 8 and 9.Approach: As for all Ha Ling routes. It is the first right facing corner beneath the large black wall right of Quick Re...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman's) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the parking area/approach.  Thanks Ron Keller...
From the parking area/approach. Thanks Ron Keller...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the obstacles encountered on your way from ...
One of the obstacles encountered on your way from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ha Ling, as seen from the Junkyards ice area. Earl...
Ha Ling, as seen from the Junkyards ice area. Earl...

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