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China in June - recommendations
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Feb 20, 2013
5b upper pitch in the clouds

I'll have a partner, gear, and time to do some climbing in China this summer, early June. Will be based out of Chengdu.

Anybody climb in Yangshuo/Getu this time of year? We're thinking it's probably too wet, and maybe even too warm.

Other recommendations? Kashgar, Liming, Kekexili... we're up for anything.


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By climbnplay
Feb 26, 2013

summer is the worst season for Yangshuo - there will be flooding on the streets from rain (as in, the streets may be kayak-able). Go north, Beijing (Baihe) or Qingdao. Baihe will be hot because it's landlocked but Qingdao will be pleasant as it is by the sea. Perfect granite with breathtaking scenery for both bouldering and sport climbing - also endless potential for first ascends - trad and sport (but you will need to get to know the locals, i.e. Zhugan aka Bamboo, before they'll trust you to bolt sport routes). Also there is a placed called Guoliang in Henan provence - June may be good as it is in a gorge and generally much more chilly than the outside, but rain may be an issue. Look it up, it's the Verdon gorge of China with endless potential (and a few hundred existing lines), again for both sport and trad. The rock is ancient quartz sandstone, amazingly beautiful. San'er is the person you want to contact for Guoliang; he owns an outdoor shop in the closest major city. (I am Chinese and i have been to all these places mentioned.)


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By climbnplay
Feb 26, 2013

for Liming, get in touch with Mike Dobie (the guy that put up most of the routes at Liming) - he'll be able to tell you all about the seasons there.


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By ZoeyG
From Evanston, IL
Feb 26, 2013
Me.

climbnplay wrote:
San'er is the person you want to contact for Guoliang; he owns an outdoor shop in the closest major city. (I am Chinese and i have been to all these places mentioned.)



Hey! Would you mind PM me contact info for San'er? I'm from Zhengzhou and will visit this summer. Some climbing is definitely in the plan!!


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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Feb 27, 2013
5b upper pitch in the clouds

climbnplay -- thanks for all these ideas. I'll check out the Henan place, never heard of it before. Any more beta online (in any language)?

Liming also pretty attractive, I'll get in touch with Mike (did see his nice website already).

Dan


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By Xtine
From June Lake, CA
Apr 23, 2013
Straight Shooter

Hi Dan,

I was formerly based out of Chengdu and have a little climbing beta for you. The outdoor areas may take about 1hr-3hrs to get to out of the city. There is info on this thread from the site: www.gochengdoo.com that is chock full of interesting stories and info for foreigners arriving to the city. Here is the thread on climbing and you and your partner may be able to arrange transpo with people already going if you pitch in a little for gas.

www.gochengdoo.com/en/forums/thread/3233/looking_for_fellow_>>>

One of the more helpful people on the site is under the name, DragonExpeditions (Matt)...he runs a tour company for trekking and climbing but he won't charge for beta (most likely) and is particularly helpful to folks that need it.

I climbed in a place called HeMingShan (鹤鸣山) while there and the routes were great.....climbs around 5.9-5.11 and maybe by now harder grades. Here is what the area looks like on approach:

HeMingShan in Sichuan, China
HeMingShan in Sichuan, China


Also, while in Sichuan, I highly recommend visiting Siguniang. If you go to one national park, that should be it......most everything else is a horrific tourist trap (like E'mei Mountain...it's terrible: people hiking in high heels, second-hand smoke everywhere, tons of crowds and being behind trail-blocks and peddling that will drive you mad). Siguniang is amazing...natural trails, camping, fresh water off the mountains....you may desire it after some time in Chengdu.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Siguniang]]en.wikipedia.org/wiki>>>

Here's my trip on it: seechristinec.com/2011/08/12/a-trip-to-siguniang/]]seechrist>>>

If you're making connections into Hong Kong, I highly suggest to at least spend one day climbing there if you haven't...either outdoors in the downtown area or more remotely on Lantau, where the international airport is located ....it's actually fantastic. They have mixed climbing, sport, and multipitch sport/mixed. Here is an online guide for that:

hongkongclimbing.com/guide/]]hongkongclimbing.com/guide/

Good luck and enjoy the area! If you have any more questions feel free to PM me.


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By BrianWS
Apr 23, 2013

I spent most of july and august climbing in Yangshuo and had a blast. You can chase shade pretty easily, but some of the standout areas (Baishan, Banyan) get blasted by sun for much of the day. Then again, I was accustomed to living/climbing in Taiwan's sauna-like conditions -- the high ambient temps and humidity might be an issue if you aren't used to it.
The Yangshuo climbing community is/was fantastic, by the way. Great locals, great expats alike.

If you by any chance make your way down to Taiwan, there is excellent sandstone by the northeastern sea. It's a lovely spot with quality single pitch sport and trad.


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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Apr 24, 2013
5b upper pitch in the clouds

Hi Xtine and Brian --

Thanks both for the recommendations. Our plans evolved a bit, and now we'll be headed to Keketuohai in Xinjiang for some granite climbing... maybe first ascents in the park there, if we get our gear organized.

I went to Siguniangshan a few years ago and had a great time just hiking. The peaks are really beautiful there; the mountaineering must be pretty adventurous.

Thanks especially for the gochengdoo link, that will be useful for future trips!

Yangshuo I'll save for an autumn trip! Taiwan and Hong Kong will have to be later trips as well...

Thanks again


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