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Shipton's Arete
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
China Groove T 
No Picnic T 
Shipton's Voyage T 

China Groove 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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P1 5.5 PG -- Follow cracks to left leaning crack, follow this to its end then move right and up less protectible face to the tree anchor.


25 feet uphill from ledge at base of the arete, at a blocky groove.


Thin at the top. Probably better to just lead Shipton's and top rope China Groove.

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By KVRob
Jul 12, 2014

I'm not sure why people don't think this isn't worthwhile. It is an obvious, climbable line, and with a little more traffic, would be clean and enjoyable. It's an easy crack, for those working on beginner crack routes. If this line were at the Uberfall in the Gunks and clean, it would be a 2-3 star classic, I assure you. The unprotectable face move a5 the top is just that...a single move. There is a solid piece of gear just below your feet while making the move. Well worth the lead if you're waiting for Tillman's to open up.
By aghetie
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Agree with comment above. Grungy down low, but good moves up higher and the awesome location give it two stars in my book.

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