China Doll (P1-2, free) 

I did this route as a two pitch climb on pre-placed gear, but it can go in one tremendous pitch safely protected by gear placed on lead as well as clipping one piton and possibly a bolt. The two pitches are separated by a no-hands rest just before the first pitch anchors but it is still possible that linking them could up the grade. It is also possible that taller people may not get a good rest. However you choose to climb this route, I recommend it to anyone looking for an excellent and challenging crack close to Boulder.

I did this route in two pitches clipping bolts on the first and preplaced gear on the second. It is a continuous crack that could safely go as one tremendous pitch placing gear and clipping a piton. It may or may not up the grade since there is a no-hands rest before the first anchors, but it would certainly be a more bad-ass endeavor. However you climb it, it's an excellent and challenging crack climb super close to Boulder.

Good job, Mike Patz, but I am confused by this - I thought the first and second pitches had already been sent by Bob Horan, and the 1st and 2nd pitches had been sent without bolts by Adam Stack. Please clarify.

Congrats on free climbing the second pitch without adding bolts! Give yourself a high-five. I heard the glued foothold on the first pitch is gone. How did you do the middle section of this pitch?

I called the first pitch what the Rossiter book calls the first two pitches. At the first pitch crux where the route used to traverse right via a former glued-on foothold you must now go straight up. It is a difficult boulder problem and I have heard the pitch is now a little harder than when the glued foot was there, but if done on gear I think it would be much safer than when Adam did it traversing right. Also the route is now 100% natural.

Hey, Jim, did you send China Doll? If so, good send. You must be fit. BTW, how's it going. It's good to see a familiar face. I have been gone for a long time. KC

Ken, I sent this route last year ( 04)

The description above is out of date, and I figured this excellent route could use a more clear description. China Doll, as a gear route, is done as one long 130ft pitch at 14a. To start, either 1) solo the 5.10 original start, or 2) scramble up the 5.8 to the right to reach the ledge below the obvious splitter corner. Make difficult moves over marginal gear to get established in the crack, a large HB offset and offset master-cam are usefull here. Climb the crack, placing relatively good but widely spaced gear, until the large horn feature at the old anchor (13b/c). From the horn rest, it is full-on tips jamming for 20ft in a right-leaning, overhanging corner that wants to spit you out the whole way (13+). A microcam and small stopper protect this crux section. The thin crack ends in an alcove, take a breath, and don't blow the funky 5.11 to the anchor. Though the final crux section goes somewhere in the 13d range, the whole climb adds up both mentally and physically to an outstanding 14a. Rack : 1 large offset HB (#5 or 6), small offset Mastercam, singles from 00C3-#1, with doubles #0.4, #0.5, and #0.75, and 1 small stopper.