20 degree overhung (avg) sandy limestone cliff. Most routes are long and pumpy. Cliff faces SE so the season is sometimes winter (sunny days), spring and fall. Way to hot in the sun in the summer. Routes start at 11a and head up to 14a. The easy routes have never been equipped. Some pockets and tufas, but mostly edges and rails. Rarely is anyone here. Guidebook is Inland Northwest Rockclimbs by Marty Bland.
Getting There
Kettle Falls, WA. to US-395 north till about mile marker 245. Take a right on Northport-Flat Creek Rd. A little over 15mi. will be China Bend Rd on the right. Take it down to the river and start looking up for the big white cliff. Park at the 3 big pine trees and walk up the trail.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for China Bend:
Belay up on small ledge. The route follows a unique steepvstrip of black rock, first arching left then continuing straight up. Utilize a very creative rest at the end of the black strip just prior to pulling over a bulge,it will be needed after pulling through the steep black streak.Regarded as the best 5.11a in Marty Bland's book Inland Northwest Rock Climbs ...[more]Browse More Classics in WA
China Bend has a very high profile bird closure that must be taken seriously or the area risks permanent closure. There is a golden eagles nest on the cliff. The nest has failed for the last 5 years, likely due to climbers. The WA Dept. of Fish and Wildlife is very concerned about this nest and would like to work with climbers on a voluntary closure. Unfortunately golden eagles are more sensitive to human disturbance than peregrines, and need a lot of space. Simply hiking to the base of this climbing area will disturb these birds. This bird closure encompasses every climb in the area for most of the spring.
We are looking for a local who would be willing to work with Fish and Wildife and WA Climbers Coalition to post signs.
Please contact me if you have any questions or would be willing to help out by posting some signs and posters in shops in Easter WA.
We saw 2 large eagles, I assume Golden's that appeared to be nesting at the next large cliff band further down from the crag. Is it possible they have moved?
Starting 2012 Feb 15th thru April 15th The Main Cliff is closed. Raptor Nesting. If more info is needed please contact me on this site or roadstead@rockclimbing.com Will remain closed till July 31 2013
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