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Toxic Hueco Area
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Chimpanzabubbas T 
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Chimpanzabubbas 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jon Regelbrugge, Kenny Parker, Kevin Parker, 1987
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on May 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Pulling the bolted crux move

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really good route. If you brought your trad rack, do it! It feels like a sport route with gear. Start by climb up some large flakes, heading up and left to reach the bolt on a thin face. Make 1 technical thin move (crux) and the head up and right to a stance. The crux is much easier if you are tall. Otherwise you won't be able to easily reach past it. The fall is safe though and is protected by a bomber bolt. From here, climb up the overhanging face on jugs and plates to the finish.

Location 

This route is located at the far right end of the Toxic Hueco area or just around the corner and up the hill from Cat Food at the Tan Wall.

Protection 

1 bolt, shuts. Rack up to a #3 camalot.


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By matt swaim
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
Jun 19, 2016

BETA SPOILER ALERT: the guide says there are some chickenheads to sling. I didn't find any worth stopping for. Just ran it until i could get my feet under me.
By BrianWS
Jun 19, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pro is G rated 100% on this route with a standard rack and no slinging of natural features. Sweet climb, especially the steep and featured upper headwall.
By matt swaim
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
Jun 20, 2016

Thanks, Brian. I "100%" didn't suggest a PG-13 rating.
By BrianWS
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

"100%" never suggested that you implied a gear rating. Just reiterating ample gear despite the guidebook's dubious beta.
By matt swaim
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
Jun 20, 2016

Fair enough. Fun lead with an interesting crux. Especially for us short guys
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Jun 20, 2016

Clearly both you guys have been up this thing and no pics to add to this fine route database we call Mountain Project? :D

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