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This is a cop-out route when you try to lead the face to the right and cluck leftward. It is on the lean side of a star, but hey, some folks say there aren't too many chimneys to play on around these parts, so I reckon here's one.
You can get a #2 Camalot near the ground. Chimney above the 3rd class gully. Find small gear like a medium wire, #0 TCU, small Aliens, and wriggle upward. You can TR the face to the right off your anchor for this.
This is really stemming above the 3rd class gully.
A small rack to a #2 Camalot. The anchor can be a red Alien & green Alien with an optional #4 Camalot.
The chimney and tiny pillar face to the right.
Looking down while climbing the chimney.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This is a fun little climb. It is 5.6 at the most. It might be easier.