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Doug just before switching to right side in.
|Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>|
This is an interesting line that climbs much easier than it would appear and requires far less chimneying that you might think. It has a bolted anchor, so it has been climbed before, but it remains somewhat loose and dirty in spots.
This obvious, flared chimney is to the right of Rusty, Small Hole Hanger Route
. Start up on face holds, which seem to incline you to face right. It may be a bit challenging to get gear in this section as the crack is shallow and irregular to some. When two large footholds appear on the left, you can switch to more right side in. Face holds keep appearing and allow you to avoid much friction on your back. Once above the chimney taper, the footholds on the right get slopey. Yard up onto the ledge and the two bolt anchor.
If you have a name or FA, let me know and I'll update the info.
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the route.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
I don't think the crack is "shallow and irregular". Small cams seem to protect it very well. There is some loose rock on the left side of the chimney near its top.