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Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis 
Chimney Sweep 
Don't Jump Back Crack 
Dream Slate 
Dreamscape 
Ethiopian Kid 
Involuntary Release 
Mr. Sandman 
Narcolepsy 
Narcosis 
Suture Fancy 
Turn Of The Sentry 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 

Chimney Sweep 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1986
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 29, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jason on his last climb of the day.

Description 

This is the left of the two cracks, left of the Narcolepsy/Dreamscape face. An easy beginning leads to an awkward steeper section that gets more difficult as soon as Mr. Sandman branches right. A couple of cruxes, IMO, the first clearing the 1st overhanging section and the second on the exit sequence, will test your confidence. A nice climb worth doing with some fun jamming and a bit of chimneying.


Protection 

There are 2 bolts that can be used for an anchor up top (Mr. Sandman's), but will cause some drag. Otherwise, the gear required is pretty standard, heavy on the larger cams/hexes. I also slung a couple of chockstones.



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Chimney Sweep
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Sweep
First crux...
First crux...
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By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Jul 7, 2008

I think that this climb deserves at least 2 stars. I really enjoyed it. The begining is quite easy but the climb gets more difficult at the roof. The roof is quite challenging until the proper holds are found, then a fun chimney sequence follows, lastly you will pull another roof by a rather awkward move to get around the corner to the anchors. This really should get climbed more often than it does. Great climb to introduce climbers to some unique techniques.

By Eric_Dacus
Jul 5, 2011

Wow, the upper section of this route is awkward.