Chimney Spire  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  264. Good page?    Administrators:  M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  limpingcrab on Nov 8, 2012 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Perigrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>> This area is often closed from springtime until early August for nesting. Contact the Hume Lake ranger district of the Sequoia National Forest for seasonal closures. 559-338-2251 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Chimney Spire from the approach

Description 

Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.

The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.

Getting There 

From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.

Descend by rappelling off the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.

The Classics

Featured Route For Chimney Spire

Wall of Early Morning Fright 5.9  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon Nati... : ... : Chimney Spire

The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three. P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9). P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA