Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.
From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.
Browse More Classics in Chimney Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Spire:
Duet 5.8+ Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II
Wall of Early Morning Fright 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Kitty From Hell 5.10d Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet
Featured Route For Chimney Spire
Wall of Early Morning Fright 5.9 CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon Nati... : ... : Chimney Spire
The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three. P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9). P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA