Chimney Spire from the approach
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Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.
The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.
From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.
Start the descent with a short rappel from the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the climbers right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet (ledge covered in blocks. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Chimney Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Spire:
Duet 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Chimney Spire
Kitty From Hell 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP
: ... : Chimney Spire
If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super ex...[more] Browse More Classics in CA