The Chimney Rocks area is comprised of roughly six granite formations with routes from 1 pitch to 700 feet. There are dozens of beautiful climbs with everything from clean cracks to thin slab, and even some knobs. Many routes are trad, but close to 20 of the routes on Crystal Wall are bolted so there is something for everyone.
Chimney Spire, the most popular formation, has at least thirteen routes of it's own, with Duet (5.8++) being the most popular. The other formations include Chimney Rock, Crystal Wall, Dinner Wall, The Monk, Mocassin Ridge, and Sasquatch Spire. The area has a sporadic first ascent record as attention grew and wained over the years. Many of the routes were pioneered by employees at a nearby Christian Camp that is now closed.
Please respect seasonal falcon closures. Don't jeopardize access for the rest of us.
From Fresno take highway 180 east into Kings Canyon National Park. From Visalia take highway 198 east into Sequoia National Park. The two highways are connected and called the Generals Highway within the parks,
From the Generals Highway between the Big Baldy trailhead and the Stony Creek Lodge, take Road 14S29 West. There is a sign that reads "National Forest Organizational Camps, San Joaquin Far Horizons." Follow the main road and signs for about four miles to the end of the road.
At this point you can take a trail (by the old sign post) south to approach via Crystal Wall, or West to approach via Camp Ridge to the notch above Chimney Rock Spire. The trail West leaves from the north side of a downed tree that blocks part of the loop at the end of the road. The two trails can be connected by scrambling along the north side of Crystal Wall
The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three. P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9). P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA