The Chimney Rocks area is comprised of roughly six granite formations with routes from 1 pitch to 700 feet. There are dozens of beautiful climbs with everything from clean cracks to thin slab, and even some knobs. Many routes are trad, but close to 20 of the routes on Crystal Wall are bolted so there is something for everyone.
Chimney Spire, the most popular formation, has at least thirteen routes of it's own, with Duet (5.8++) being the most popular. The other formations include Chimney Rock, Crystal Wall, Dinner Wall, The Monk, Mocassin Ridge, and Sasquatch Spire. The area has a sporadic first ascent record as attention grew and wained over the years. Many of the routes were pioneered by employees at a nearby Christian Camp that is now closed.
Please respect seasonal falcon closures. Don't jeopardize access for the rest of us.
From Fresno take highway 180 east into Kings Canyon National Park. From Visalia take highway 198 east into Sequoia National Park. The two highways are connected and called the Generals Highway within the parks,
From the Generals Highway between the Big Baldy trailhead and the Stony Creek Lodge, take Road 14S29 West. There is a sign that reads "National Forest Organizational Camps, San Joaquin Far Horizons." Follow the main road and signs for about four miles to the end of the road.
At this point you can take a trail (by the old sign post) south to approach via Crystal Wall, or West to approach via Camp Ridge to the notch above Chimney Rock Spire. The trail West leaves from the north side of a downed tree that blocks part of the loop at the end of the road. The two trails can be connected by scrambling along the north side of Crystal Wall
If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super ex...[more]Browse More Classics in CA