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Chimney Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main 
Amanecer 
Another Roadside Attraction 
Boardwalk 
Centerpiece 
Coherent Excitation 
Copperhead 5 
Crows Nest 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat 
FIUTT 
George's Buttress 
Georges Peach 
Jungle Gym 
Mistaken Identity 
New Year's Eve 
Perfect Peter 
Shriveled Penis 
Single Lens Reflex 
Standard Route 
Stonedmasters 
Stoner's Boner 
Straight Arrow 
Stripper 
Tomorrow is Today 
Unstrung Harp 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
Veranda 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 

Chimney Rock 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Oct 18, 2002
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Hut Guide, Chimney Rock, page 2

Description 

Chimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.

The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.

The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.


Getting There 

Driving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.

Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.

Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',9],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
George's Buttress   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Standard Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 200'   
FIUTT   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     , 2 pitches, 200'   
Mistaken Identity   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Stoner's Boner   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Centerpiece   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Copperhead 5   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Crows Nest   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Single Lens Reflex   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jungle Gym   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Straight Arrow   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Shriveled Penis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Tomorrow is Today   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
Christian crimping, jamming, and stemming as he approaches the top of pitch one.

Crows Nest 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Chimney Rock
This route is located on the far right end of Chimney Rock, just right of the steep, bolted Ratline (5.11). Climb the left leaning, large dihedral for two pitches. Cruxy moves, and great protection, are encountered on both pitches. A two bolt anchor at the top of Ratline marks the top of the first pitch. A savvy leader can easily link the first two pitches. This is desirable as the first belay is hanging while the second belay is one of the best on the mountain (and also bolted). The last ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Chimney Rock
Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock
Old Summit Hut guide to southern AZ, 1st page of Chimney Rock routes...1980
Old Summit Hut guide to southern AZ, 1st page of C...
Good man.....
Good man.....
Greg on the first pitch of Gripping Space.  Nice plates on a slightly overhand wall.
Greg on the first pitch of Gripping Space. Nice p...
From left to right: George's Buttress, Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, Centerpiece, Single Lens Reflex, Copperhead #5
BETA PHOTO: From left to right: George's Buttress, Mistaken Id...
Chimney Rock, March 2003, the day after a rather heavy snow.  Photo taken from a spot on the road, above the crag, near the on-road parking.
Chimney Rock, March 2003, the day after a rather h...
8th and Main...?
8th and Main...?
Second pitch after the nice OW.
Second pitch after the nice OW.
Park after the pullout parking sign. I was a fool and parked right in front of this sign for a $75 fine! The correct pullout is about 100' up the road.
Park after the pullout parking sign. I was a fool ...
Comments on Chimney Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 26, 2008

best single-pitch traditional climbing crag on mt. lemmon.

one negative: be wary of chopped anchors.

By TBD
Nov 25, 2008

I strongly suggest NOT taking the "safe option" approach. We had a dog with us and decided to approach that way. It was ridiculously unpleasant. My 2 cents, if you can't manage the short scramble, find somewhere else to climb. Great routes though.

By tbrain
Mar 31, 2009

Found baseball cap at the base of the routes on Chimney Rock evening of 30 Mar 09. PM me to collect. Thanks! -Tiffany Brainerd

By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2010

From the picture, it looks like it may be pitch four.

By CALEB ANDERSON
May 2, 2010

Great area on Lemmon for all trad routes and great views like most of Lemmon, however be so kind to watch for loose rock and big blocks for your belayer, and passing traffic on the road below.

By Tim Arnold
Apr 11, 2011

If it helps anyone, the location of Chimney Rock is at this approximate latitude and longitude: 32.36865600 N,110.70476300 W

By Jimbo
Apr 12, 2011

Thanks for posting that. I've been trying to find Chimney Rock for 15 years. Now I finally can.

By GregC
Feb 20, 2013

Even with the GPS this was a mess. Finally found the wall but pictures from our book were useless. We climbed some route which took a #4 had a boulder slung as the first mini pitch then went up to a bolted anchor which then continued to some steep sport route. If anyone knows if that is even a route and if so what name is appreciate it.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2013

GregC- you did 8th & Main into Icarus (the 5.11 sport route up the overhanging arete of the pillar).