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Chimney Rock

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Chimney Rock - East Face 
Chimney Rock - West Face 

Chimney Rock  


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Location: 34.01677, -116.16144 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,895
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 1, 2002
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Chimney Rock with The Wall over to the left in the...

Description 

Chimney Rock, located right in HVCG, has a few nice routes - Pinched Rib (5.10b), a short bolted dike, The Flue, an oft overlooked fun 5.8 handcrack, and West Face Overhang (5.7) are the most popular. Damper (5.9), just left of Pinched Rib, is a good wide crack to practice your fist jamming/offwidth technique.

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.

Getting There 

The new road into HVCG passes directly by the south face of Chimney Rock. The quartz dike is Pinched Rib. If that isn't enough direction, find Intersection Rock and walk NE.


Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
The Flue   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Chimney Rock - East Face
Damper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Chimney Rock - West Face
Pinched Rib   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Chimney Rock - West Face
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Chimney Rock - West Face
The Flue, Right   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Chimney Rock - East Face
Blind Ambition   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Chimney Rock - East Face
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
"Dyno in the Dark" above the Space Stati...

Dyno in the Dark 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
Scramble up a chimney on the NE corner of the rock and belay (1-2") in an alcove just above the Space Station. Make an exposed reach into a clean crack. Jam and layback this, and finish in an easy slot. Rap bolts on top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Weathered tree near Chimney Rock's North Face, Jos...
Weathered tree near Chimney Rock's North Face, Jos...
Climbers and Fall Moon Atop Chimney Rock
Climbers and Fall Moon Atop Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock (W. Face) Joshua Tree NP
Chimney Rock (W. Face) Joshua Tree NP
Chuck Clance sending to the Space Station. Photo b...
Chuck Clance sending to the Space Station. Photo b...
Chimney Rock (W. Face), Joshua Tree NP
Chimney Rock (W. Face), Joshua Tree NP
Space Station party. Photo by Blueblocr.
Space Station party. Photo by Blueblocr.
Chimney Rock East Face
Chimney Rock East Face

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