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Chimney Rock - East Face 
Chimney Rock - West Face 

Chimney Rock 


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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 1, 2002

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Chimney Rock (W. Face) Joshua Tree NP

Description 

Chimney Rock, located right in HVCG, has a few nice routes - Pinched Rib (5.10b), a short bolted dike, The Flue, an oft overlooked fun 5.8 handcrack, and West Face Overhang (5.7) are the most popular. Damper (5.9), just left of Pinched Rib, is a good wide crack to practice your fist jamming/offwidth technique.

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.


Getting There 

The new road into HVCG passes directly by the south face of Chimney Rock. The quartz dike is Pinched Rib. If that isn't enough direction, find Intersection Rock and walk NE.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
The Flue   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Chimney Rock - East Face
Damper   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Chimney Rock - West Face
Pinched Rib   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Chimney Rock - West Face
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Chimney Rock - West Face
The Flue, Right   5.10c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Chimney Rock - East Face
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
Tom

Pinched Rib 5.10b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
Not much to say about this one. A pretty fun - albeit short - route. Follow the quartz dike past 2 bolts (crux at second bolt). Belay in crack (hand size cams) and descend west down 4th class chimney.Descend by heading right and down a slabby but improbable looking crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Weathered tree near Chimney Rock's North Face, Joshua Tree.

Weathered tree near Chimney Rock's North Face, Jos...

Climbers and Fall Moon Atop Chimney Rock

Climbers and Fall Moon Atop Chimney Rock

Space Station party. <br />Photo by Blueblocr.

Space Station party.
Photo by Blueblocr.


Chuck Clance sending to the Space Station. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Chuck Clance sending to the Space Station.
Photo b...


Chimney Rock (W. Face), Joshua Tree NP

Chimney Rock (W. Face), Joshua Tree NP