Chimney Rock with The Wall over to the left in the...
Chimney Rock, located right in HVCG, has a few nice routes - Pinched Rib
(5.10b), a short bolted dike, The Flue
, an oft overlooked fun 5.8 handcrack, and West Face Overhang (5.7) are the most popular. Damper
(5.9), just left of Pinched Rib
, is a good wide crack to practice your fist jamming/offwidth technique. Safety Warning
: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.
The new road into HVCG passes directly by the south face of Chimney Rock. The quartz dike is Pinched Rib. If that isn't enough direction, find Intersection Rock and walk NE.
Weather station 10.0 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
Featured Route For Chimney Rock
The Flue 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Chimney Rock - East Face
The route beings with vertical face past several horizontals (gear to 1.5") to a step left into a long right-slanting hand crack. Midway up the crack step right a bit and employ a combination of crack and face climbing which leads one to a large ledge with bolted anchors.This is an often overlooked route that is on par with some of the more popular Hidden Valley classics that often have a line of people on them. If you haven't done this climb check it out - you may be pleasantly surprised....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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