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Chimney Rock - West Face
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet 
Break Dancing 
Damper 
Dirty Dancing 
Dyno in the Dark 
Howard's Horror, Direct 
Pinched Rib 
West Face Overhang 

Chimney Rock - West Face 


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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 16, 2007

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Chimney Rock-climber on "Pinched Rib".
Photo by Bl...


Description 

The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.



Getting There 

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock - West Face:
Damper   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Pinched Rib   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock - West Face

Featured Route For Chimney Rock - West Face
"Dyno in the Dark" above the Space Station. Photo by Chrystal Logan.

Dyno in the Dark 5.10b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
Scramble up a chimney on the NE corner of the rock and belay (1-2") in an alcove just above the Space Station. Make an exposed reach into a clean crack. Jam and layback this, and finish in an easy slot. Rap bolts on top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Chimney Rock - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Chimney Rock-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.


Chimney Rock-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Chimney Rock-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.


Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.

Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.