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Chimney Rock - West Face

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L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet 
Break Dancing 
Damper 
Dirty Dancing 
Dyno in the Dark 
Howard's Horror, Direct 
Pinched Rib 
West Face Overhang 

Chimney Rock - West Face 


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Page Views: 14,255
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 16, 2007
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Chimney Rock-climber on "Pinched Rib".
Photo by Bl...

Description 

The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.



Getting There 

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock - West Face:
Damper   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pinched Rib   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock - West Face

Featured Route For Chimney Rock - West Face
Jason Partin on the crux of Howard's Horror Direct

Howard's Horror, Direct 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
A fun thin crack/mantle problem. The original 5.7 line started well to the left, and then traversed right to the upper part of the route. The direct start is a better way to do the climb - the protection is very good for the hard moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Chimney Rock - West Face
Photos of Chimney Rock - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Chimney Rock-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Chimney Rock-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.
Chimney Rock-West Face. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock-West Face.
Photo by Blitzo.
Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.
Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.
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