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Chimney Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 525
Submitted By: Jody Langford on Jan 1, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ran...


A fun, part crack, part stemming climb. Go up to the back of the cleft in the rock and climb staright up.


Small to 4"

Photos of Chimney Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Floyd Hayes zipping up Chimney Crack. Photo by Cheri Ermshar.
Floyd Hayes zipping up Chimney Crack. Photo by Che...
Emily Jio climbing the chimney crack(5.8). Photo ©
Emily Jio climbing the chimney crack(5.8). Photo ©...
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By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 28, 2005

I hesitate to give this a PG rating since it is only about 25' long; however, pro is somewhat marginal towards the top of the route so a lead fall *could* result in a ground fall. Just a heads-up if you're thinking of leading it.

By Floyd Hayes
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

After previewing it on rappel, the pro looked good so I led it and felt secure, zipping it up with six cams, all of which I trusted to hold at least a short fall. However, as a lead it felt like 5.9.

By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Unique climbing style for the Central Coast. Perhaps that is why it felt like 5.9 on lead, but is probably 5.8ish. Both the climbing and gear feel insecure but the gear is actually quite good and placement opportunities are abundant (every 3 feet or less). I found a small peanut to be useful and a red tricam does the trick for that cubic pocket about midway up.