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Chimney Canyon

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Cake, The 
Candle, The 
Chimney, The 
Clandestine Wall 
Muralla Grande 
Sentinel, The 

Chimney Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Location: 35.2134, -106.453 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,561
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Overview map of Chimney and Upper LaCueva Canyons

Description 

This canyon is located just below the Ceder Crest communication towers. The most prominant feature within this canyon is Muralla Grande ("great wall"). The canyon is named after the chimney looking spire south of Muralla Grande.

Getting There 

See map, and each specific climbing wall/spire for specific directions.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.3 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Chimney Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Chimney Canyon:
Rocky Racoon   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 240'   The Chimney
Lost Ledge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'   The Sentinel
The Second Coming   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Muralla Grande
La Selva   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   Muralla Grande
Morning Wood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Clandestine Wall
Warpy Moople   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Muralla Grande
Boogers & Chocolate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Clandestine Wall
Lawyers, Guns & Money   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'   Muralla Grande
Excitable Boys   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Muralla Grande
Out to Lunch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Muralla Grande
Wiretap   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'   Clandestine Wall
Skinwalker   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'   Clandestine Wall
Dire Straights   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Muralla Grande
Little Yellow Jacket   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 580'   Muralla Grande
Cloak and Dagger   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 165'   Clandestine Wall
Autumn Ivy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Clandestine Wall
Thunderbird   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Muralla Grande
Cat Daddy   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   Clandestine Wall
Thunderstruck   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'   Clandestine Wall
Event Horizon   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'   Clandestine Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Chimney Canyon

Featured Route For Chimney Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the crux pitch of Thunderbird on the FA.

Thunderbird 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Muralla Grande
Starts at the head of a small gully 60 ft away from the start of Little Yellow Jacket and ~100 ft (a couple switchbacks) below Second Coming. The route begins in very obvious right-facing dihedral and climbs generally straight up for 6 pitches to the top of Muralla.P1 (95 ft – 5.11-): Climb an obvious right-facing dihedral and pull a roof to a fixed pin below a second roof. Back up pin with nut and traverse right under roof to belay on ledge with another fixed pin.P2 (90 ft – 5.11): Clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Chimney Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Chimney, the canyon's namesake
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney, the canyon's namesake

Comments on Chimney Canyon Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Apr 22, 2011
As of April 11, 2011 the approach to the Clandestine Wall was impassable due to snow covered ice on the steep sections of the Chimney Canyon trail. With crampons and axes (not kidding here) the hike might be managable; with our approach shoes, however, it was downright dangerous and we turned around to go climb at the stuff in Echo Canyon instead.

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