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Routes in Moonlight Rock
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Chimmay Chimnae T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dancing in the Moonlight S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Starlight Rambler T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 135 ft (41 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Al Simons |
| Page Views: | 1,461 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Oct 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Start at lowest point on south face.
P1. Climb to first bolt of Dancing in the Moonlight, but climb right into a shallow, water runnel/chimney. Continue up and out of chimney cutting left to belay for Dancing.
P2. Walk into the chimney and go up past 3 bolts gaining the left wall. Finish the pitch with the hand/fist crack to the second belay for Dancing.
P3. Finish by climbing the crack on the right side of the summit block to a two chain anchor. It is not visible in the photo - see the topo.
P1. Climb to first bolt of Dancing in the Moonlight, but climb right into a shallow, water runnel/chimney. Continue up and out of chimney cutting left to belay for Dancing.
P2. Walk into the chimney and go up past 3 bolts gaining the left wall. Finish the pitch with the hand/fist crack to the second belay for Dancing.
P3. Finish by climbing the crack on the right side of the summit block to a two chain anchor. It is not visible in the photo - see the topo.
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