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Chili Sauce (aka Moffat Problem) 
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Chili Sauce (aka Moffat Problem) 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Jerry Moffat
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: RTM on Apr 5, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Chili Sauce (V7) an area classic is found near the...

Description 

Chili Sauce is a fairly obvious dihedral on a boulder that lies near the right side of the formation on the desert floor.

Climb a short, overhanging dihedral with sweet diagonal rails and stems. Move out left to a pockety seam and a diamond shaped black diorite edge. Power through the crimpy crux to a jug over the top.

Protection 

A pad is nice to cover a rock underneath the crux.


Photos of Chili Sauce (aka Moffat Problem) Slideshow Add Photo
Chili Sauce (V7), Joshua Tree NP
Chili Sauce (V7), Joshua Tree NP
Climber on Chili Sauce (V7)
Climber on Chili Sauce (V7)
"Chilli Sauce". Photo by Blitzo.
"Chilli Sauce". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Chili Sauce (aka Moffat Problem) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 28, 2006
rating: V7 7A+

Originally regarded as the hardest boulder problem in J-Tree, its then rating of V9 has been twice down graded to the current V7 (still wildly hard).
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 5, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

One of the best in the Park. Requires an equal mix of technique and crimp strength. Multiple choices of sequences up to the diamond knob, and multiple ways of pulling the crux past it.
By RTM
Feb 6, 2012

Kinda funny how big a deal peeps make of the final sequence. Whether you are heel hooking or not, the hands are still the same. I have also heard some call the sit start v9, and others say it does not add anything to the rating!?
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

I'd agree, both finishes felt about the same to me. One is more technical, the other requires more crimp strength. I think people get wound up about it because they aren't strong enough for the "easier" heel hooking beta and get bouted on the techy stems with the original beta, or they sent it back when people called it V9 and are still nursing the butthurt from the multiple downgrades.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 8, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 27, 2013

This problem is named after the Morris Day and the Time song... Chili Sauce.
Here are the last few lines:

My God darling, it fits, you must have strong hands
But they're so soft like the oils in my morning bath
Somebody help me
Darling?
Yeah
I'm not usually so forward, But would you like to make love to me?
Hmmm?
I, I could make it so nice

Do you know what is meant by the words, uhh ? I hate to use them, They're so harsh, American you know what I mean? And yet on the other hand, they're exciting words
The words, chili sauce
Oh Lord

You know, I haven't made love in so long, But with you, I know it would be just like riding a bike. I'd remember everything I've ever learned
Baby if the kid can't make you come, nobody can
Morris
Yeah
17
Oh, um, What's it gonna be, baby?
Chili sauce
Oh Lord