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5. Children's Crusade Wall
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Beelzebub Corner, The T 
Boy's Brigade T 
Children's Crusade T 
Dress Left T 
Eliminate, The T 
Problem Child T,S 
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Reign of Fire T 
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 

Children's Crusade 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: fall and spring summer can be hot
Page Views: 2,573
Submitted By: Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch.

Description 

Pitch 1: climb up the left-leaning dike and traverse right at an angle piton in a solution pocket, make technical moves up a overlap clipping two well spaced bolts. Make a difficult, mantle move (crux)stand up and clip a bolt (with relief) and follow the left trending dike on square cut holds to a two bolt anchor on the left.
Pitch 2: climb just right of the belay on small holds protected by two bolts. Continue up overlaps, placing traditional gear trending left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: from the belay climb up and left with crack protection to a blank slab, make mandatory, unprotected, slab moves to a two bolt anchor on the headwall 5.8.
Pitch 4: from the top of the third pitch traverse right until below a left-facing corner capped by a steep, right-facing corner. There is a horizontal crack taking gear from 0.5-1" gear for the traditional anchor. Once the belay is established make your way up the left-facing dihedral placing small nuts and cams, surmount a small roof (5.10c) and moving into the striking, upper, right-facing corner. Stem and crimp up the corner (fixed knifeblade) and pull a difficult roof to good holds trending right to a two bolt anchor. 5.11a most people rap from here but there is another 10b slab pitch above.

To descend make four 60m rappels from your previously used bolt anchors to the ground.


Location 

The Children's Crusade Wall is located directly after the Ethereal Buttress on the right. Children's Crusade is two climbs left of the obvious, wide corner (Belzebub) making up the left side of the Ethereal Buttress.


Protection 

This route is mostly bolted but in no way is a sport route, prepare for 5.9 moves above your bolts. The 5.11 direct finish is well protected with small to medium cams and nuts. A standard rack should work well for the full length route.



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 26, 2009

f/a Heintz/Comeau '79 ? Direct Webster

By CTYankee
May 5, 2009

The mantle on pitch 1 is damn intimidating. If you are inflexible, it is quite entertaining. I reached down and pulled up my foot while praying that I would somehow stay plastered on that one mantling hand. I'd love to do it again sometime - as a second, but my partners aren't into leading that spicy little move.

By L. Hamilton
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

As of 7/17/09, there is a loose flake just below the belay on pitch 2. It's not necessary to grab it, but could be nasty if someone carelessly did.

The small 10c roof halfway up pitch 4 has a fairly sharp edge -- it's tough to keep the rope away from this, for leader or second. Double ropes might not be a bad idea.

The 10c slab moves on pitch 5, just above the belay, are protected by an old 1/4" bolt with spinning SMC hanger. Adds to the sense of exposure.

"A tremendous adventure," Ed Webster was right!

By Eric Dearing
Jul 21, 2009

On the fourth pitch, in addition to medium-small (e.g., .5 camelot) to medium (e.g., 2 camelot) gear, I was happy to have some very small stuff (e.g., ball-nutz) to supplement a couple pins and a bolt.

And, I'll second Hamilton's double ropes suggestion as well as his note that 10c feels about right for the crux on the fifth pitch.

A stellar climb through all five pitches.

By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Nov 22, 2010

I lead this back in like 04 or 05. Wowzers what a climb. Pitch one is a serious 5.9, while P4 is nothing short of astounding in both difficulty and positions. I placed 2 #3 steel nuts to supplement the near-worthless pins.

By Matt Stamplis
From: Boston, MA
Jul 2, 2014

The bolt at the start of the crux dihedral and the pins just above have been upgraded - I didn't feel it was necessary to back any of them up - just clip and go.