Child Prodigy V6
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Following crimps up Child Prodigy.
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Description Both Firestarter and Child Prodigy can be found on the road-facing side of the Moat Boulder. Firestarter climbs the right side of the face on big holds and Child Prodigy starts as per Firestarter and breaks left.
Start on big holds that mark the start of Firestarter. Rather than going to a flake with your left hand, grab the crimp right below it and head left into an ill-defined inside corner. The crimps continue, some facing the wrong direction, until the lip where a hero-jug awaits. Topout up and right.
Protection Pads
Rachel on Child Prodigy - Arlin Goss photo
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Seth on Child Prodigy. Photo by Caroline Raymond
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Charlie on the upper section.
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Mr. Armstrong crushin'.
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Just before the big move.
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Tim on the terrible right hand side-pull/crimp/sma...
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Tim on the very extended part of the route. Tim is...
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| Comments on Child Prodigy |
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By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Oct 16, 2008
| I really like this problem. Didn't find the rumored hero jug, though...
Also, it looks like there's a more intuitive start using low sidepul in the inside corner. Would make more sense than starting to the right. |
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Dec 2, 2008
| where does this route end? up the arete seems super tough, but i havent felt the holds. out right to the jug? |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Dec 3, 2008
| Pretty sure you top out to the right (above Firestarter). |
By RyanCahill
Apr 8, 2012
| I agree with the more intuitive and direct start. Seems very obvious to me, where as starting Firestarter and moving up and left seems a bit contrived.
Overall great problem with hard finish! |
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 9, 2012
| Yea the direct start seems to be the way to go. A bit reachy for the tyrannosaur folk ( like me ) Can't wait to get back there. |
By Christian Prellwitz
Jun 20, 2012
rating: V6+
| Julian's suggested direct start is by far the more logical starting place. Otherwise, this route is quite contrived. It doesn't make any difference in the difficulty either, since the crux (IMO) is the last couple of moves at the top.
The top out is fairly strange as well, as it's not entirely clear what is 'acceptable' and what's not. Too bad because it does climb quite well with great long-ish moves on cool holds. |
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