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 ADVANCED
Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Big Loose Goose? S 
Child Abuse T 
Cool Thing S 
Fergus Traverse 
Hairball T 
Mohare Eclaire S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Mousetrap T 
Off Guard S 
Parental Abuse S 
Power and Lies S 
Puzzled Monkey S 
Rafiki S 
Rodent, The S 
Skin Deep S 
Unknown S 
Unknown Crack T 
Unknown Q S 
Unknown Rib S 
Uomama bin Rotten TR 

Child Abuse 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Gillest & Mike Keegan
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Jan 29, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The crack that takes RPs, about halfway up.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the same start as Parental Abuse, clip the first bolt on PA. When you reach ledge, jam the crack in a right-facing corner. Reach top of block, climb a thin, left-facing corner to a blocky face. Finger crack in right-facing, when roof is reached follow horizontal seam under roof. Move out right to same top out as Parental Abuse.

Location 

This is left of Parental Abuse, directly above Monkey Puzzle.

Protection 

1 bolt, RPs - Black Diamond #2.

Descent: We used same anchors as Parental Abuse for FA, 4/6/2011 new anchors installed for Child Abuse.


Photos of Child Abuse Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Keegan heading into the last corner.
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan heading into the last corner.
Mike Keegan nearing the finish of "Child Abus...
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan nearing the finish of "Child Abus...
Looking down "Child Abuse" after roof, f...
Looking down "Child Abuse" after roof, f...
Last move to the anchor.
Last move to the anchor.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Only the last third of this route is sustained. Lots of small cams are useful near the top.