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This route lies about 8 feet to the right of the start of "Mosquito Burrito
," and on the same face. In the attached picture, "Mosquito Burrito
" is the climb drawn in.
Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls
" or "Mosquito Burrito
." Scramble up to the clean face on a 3rd class slab, which lies below. Clip the belayer to the first bolt of Mosquito-Burrito
on a 5-6 foot section of rope, as the belay is insecure and you do NOT want to blow the crux if your belayer is on the ground. You would be injured without a doubt. Perhaps it would be even wiser to clip the first bolt of Mosquito Burrito with a long runner, but you still should not blow the crux.
Start the route at the far right of the roof below and right of Mosquito... Get a hold of the two sloping rails and use those and smearing foot to propel yourself to a "sloper jug" at the lip of the overhang/roof. Set your feet and CRANK to a reasonable hold up and right very close to the arete near the roof. Once this hold is grasped, the rest is footwork. The moves are really fun
Continue up the arete, where there are a few options to set stoppers, continuing to the top. At the top, traverse left 6 feet to reach the anchors of Mosquito Burrito
This climb may improve with traffic, as it is slightly dirty at this time.
A few large nuts and the willingness to do the crux unprotected with a slab below. If you blow the crux on lead, injury is probably inevitable.
Save that, this climb could be TR'd from the anchors above Mosquito Burrito
Apr 11, 2015
If you follow the natural weakness in the rock, this route is more like 5.8 or .9 R. Once you are are over the roof, the climbing is easier, but there is no protection for a while. So it will be more like an X climb. Still, a worth while climb to do especially on TR after doing the Mosquito Burrito. If you do get bored on top rope, you can play the game of find the 6 chopped bolts.