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Chiefshead is located at the head of Glacier Gorge, and stands between Pagoda Mountain to the east and McHenry's Peak to the northwest. The north ridge or central rib of Chiefshead extends northward to become the striking Spearhead formation (12,575). The northwest face and the northeast face contain most of the technical routes, but there are other moderate alpine and snow/ice/mixed routes to be found on the mountain.
Park at the Glacier Gorge junction TH or the Bear Lake TH, and follow the trail to Mills' Lake and deeper into Glacier Gorge past Black Lake. Once above timberline, make your way around to the east or west side of the Spearhead. There are good bivy sites here if you have a bivy permit.
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Featured Route For Chiefshead
The Central Rib 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chiefshead
The route begins on the NW side of the Chiefshead, below the NW face. The north ridge or central rib is obvious from this location to your left. Follow steep disconnected ramps and ledges up to the NE to gain the rib proper. Once on the rib, a rope might be nice for about a pitch or less depending on how comfortable you are with exposure (5.easy). After 100-200 feet, the route turns back into scrambling for a bit, until you are directly under the north ridge proper. From here, you have seve...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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