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Glacier Gorge
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Chiefshead Northeast Ramp 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow X

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1 pitch, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c WI2 M1-2 [details]
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,624
Submitted By: Ross on Jul 3, 2006

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The obvious, right-rising ramp, to the west ridge,...


Late in the season, the upper part of this huge ramp on the 'east' side of Chiefshead holds good WI2 ice that we soloed. To get to this, there is a broken one pitch rock band that must be gained below the saddle between Spearhead and Chiefshead. You want this to be frozen when you climb this rock.


Descend the Stoneman saddle between CH and McHenry's. We couldn't, we arrived at the ridge and were met with gale force winds and had to descend out Wild Basin. Boy, my wife was mad since I was out 36 hours.


A couple of moderate cams for the rock pitch plus some nuts. Don't take a lot of gear.

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By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 24, 2008

I solo'ed this ramp route on May 6, 1989. agreed that the mixed ice/rock start was the crux. I labeled it Slant Gully and enjoyed moderate alpine ice and steep snow all the way to the east shoulder of the peak. Don't be fooled - it's still a long hike to the summit from there. Btw: I took a good screamer on the way down, when the snow ripped off the top of the black ice below. Cartwheeled, and self arrested prior to terminal velocity. Had to get creative to downclimb the wet & running rock at the base, sans ice.