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Andrew passes easily up Chickenhead in Archangel V...
Head up the left side of the slab on chickenheads to a grassy ledge with a two bolt anchor. Either rap off, or continue and finish up with the second half of another route (5.7 from this point, follows the crack system).
Ascends the left side of the obvious slab where the trail meets the base of the monolith.
Sling chickenheads for pro, if you want any.
Two bolt anchor.
By Chris Walden
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Alaska Rock Guide appears to have bad beta on page 204 and confusion about routes #1 Chickenhead 5.4 and #2 A Bullet from Fritz 5.11a. Guidebook shows Chicken head starting at the grass ledge labeled #1 and Bullet from Fritz labeled #2 starting from the base going up. We couldn't figure it out but it appears those are reversed?
However if you climb from the base stay in the left most black streak with the chickenheads that get more pronounced the higher you go. If you start to the left of the black streak it gets really runout ~25 with no pro, tiny slabs moves, and a hard mantle topout to a ledge (also with no pro). You can place gear in the first horizontal crack (I placed an equalized C4 .4 & .2).