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The Monolith
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Wall T 
Center Slab Left T,S 
Checkered Dog  T 
Chickenhead T 
Duct tape crack T 
Flakey  T 
Freedom Roof  S 
Inside Right T 
Local Motion S,TR 
Orangutan Overhang T 
Shot on Sight T 
Slot, The T 
Spring Fling T 
Too Much Fun for You  S 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 T 
Vein of Gold  T 
Zigzag T,S 

Chickenhead 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: coldclimb on May 18, 2010

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Andrew passes easily up Chickenhead in Archangel V...

Description 

Head up the left side of the slab on chickenheads to a grassy ledge with a two bolt anchor. Either rap off, or continue and finish up with the second half of another route (5.7 from this point, follows the crack system).

Location 

Ascends the left side of the obvious slab where the trail meets the base of the monolith.

Protection 

Sling chickenheads for pro, if you want any.
Two bolt anchor.


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By Chris Walden
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Alaska Rock Guide appears to have bad beta on page 204 and confusion about routes #1 Chickenhead 5.4 and #2 A Bullet from Fritz 5.11a. Guidebook shows Chicken head starting at the grass ledge labeled #1 and Bullet from Fritz labeled #2 starting from the base going up. We couldn't figure it out but it appears those are reversed?

However if you climb from the base stay in the left most black streak with the chickenheads that get more pronounced the higher you go. If you start to the left of the black streak it gets really runout ~25 with no pro, tiny slabs moves, and a hard mantle topout to a ledge (also with no pro). You can place gear in the first horizontal crack (I placed an equalized C4 .4 & .2).

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