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Routes in Poultry Pillar - West
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Chicken Pie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Slinger T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Drumstick Direct T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Historic Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Vowles & Rick Thompson, June 1999 |
| Page Views: | 864 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Schroer on Aug 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The left (north) most route on the west face of Poultry Pillar. With overhanging jug pulls onto the summit, the last 20 feet are what really make this route worth doing.
Location
This route is on Poultry Pillar, a spur pillar of Castle Rock. Start at the same point for Drumstick Direct (the bottom of the face), but traverse left about 15 feet, either right away or gradually. Rappel from cold shuts on the summit.
Protection
Really good pro options pretty much everywhere. A few offset cams could be the bees knees at the start, as the bottom cracks are flared, but I found ample opportunities for hexes, nuts, and DMM offsets. There is a set of cold shuts with a rappel ring on the south end of the summit. There is also a bolt for clipping into while setting up the rappel, although it's not needed.
Photos
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